Comments on: Turn up the Volume! http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/ Sun, 24 Jan 2010 21:35:36 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.1 hourly 1 By: Routesetter.com » Blog Archive » A Setters Thanksgiving http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/comment-page-1/#comment-628 Routesetter.com » Blog Archive » A Setters Thanksgiving Mon, 04 Feb 2008 15:29:24 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/#comment-628 [...] Giant holds - Before the advent of super-sized holds setters had to rely solely on their creativity for cool sequences. Now all we have to do is throw a mega sloper up and call it good. A second thanks should also go to “Volumes”, the hottest feature to hit comp walls since the Slovenian Women’s team. [...] [...] Giant holds – Before the advent of super-sized holds setters had to rely solely on their creativity for cool sequences. Now all we have to do is throw a mega sloper up and call it good. A second thanks should also go to “Volumes”, the hottest feature to hit comp walls since the Slovenian Women’s team. [...]

]]> By: Routesetter.com » Blog Archive » The Antidote to Indoor Masochism http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/comment-page-1/#comment-133 Routesetter.com » Blog Archive » The Antidote to Indoor Masochism Tue, 27 Mar 2007 00:41:30 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/#comment-133 [...] The wall, like all their pervious walls, has no right angles and no dead horizontal roofs, which have been the bane of setters for decades. But it does contain enough angles to make setting a pure joy and large expanses of wall so as not to inhibit the ability to create movement. The walls have a steel skeleton with a flat wood skin. This provides a flat surface for installing large volumes and giant holds with out the fear of gaps. [...] [...] The wall, like all their pervious walls, has no right angles and no dead horizontal roofs, which have been the bane of setters for decades. But it does contain enough angles to make setting a pure joy and large expanses of wall so as not to inhibit the ability to create movement. The walls have a steel skeleton with a flat wood skin. This provides a flat surface for installing large volumes and giant holds with out the fear of gaps. [...]

]]> By: lambone http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/comment-page-1/#comment-125 lambone Fri, 16 Mar 2007 17:45:35 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/#comment-125 Oh yeah the Nicros ones are sweet too and only require one bolts and possibly a set screw or two. Just make sure Nicros sends you bolts because they take a 7 incher...which I can't seem to find localy...grrrr. Oh yeah the Nicros ones are sweet too and only require one bolts and possibly a set screw or two. Just make sure Nicros sends you bolts because they take a 7 incher…which I can’t seem to find localy…grrrr.

]]> By: lambone http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/comment-page-1/#comment-124 lambone Fri, 16 Mar 2007 17:43:22 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/03/16/turn-up-the-volume/#comment-124 Great Article! Thanks One point made in the forum a week ago is that you need to be carefull where the rope runs if installing a volume on the lead wall. Put it in between two lead draws and you can saw those things in half pretty quick. Of course that's not an issue on the boulder! We recently bought some Lapis Volumes from Climb-Max in Portland and they are great. We'd match up two of the 4-5 bolt holes with existing T-Nuts and screw in the rest. They can give an unsettleing creak if not on a perfectly flat surface. Ours are on Eldo "Dude-Tex" which is pretty smooth concrete. Great Article! Thanks

One point made in the forum a week ago is that you need to be carefull where the rope runs if installing a volume on the lead wall. Put it in between two lead draws and you can saw those things in half pretty quick. Of course that’s not an issue on the boulder!

We recently bought some Lapis Volumes from Climb-Max in Portland and they are great. We’d match up two of the 4-5 bolt holes with existing T-Nuts and screw in the rest. They can give an unsettleing creak if not on a perfectly flat surface. Ours are on Eldo “Dude-Tex” which is pretty smooth concrete.

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