The IFSC will be rolling out the new “homologated speed wall” this summer at the World Championships in Aviles, Spain. This is the world’s first officially sanctioned speed wall design, and will be the only wall recognized for future world records in speed climbing.

The purpose of the wall is to provide a standard platform for speed events at World Cups and internationally sanctioned events. Using the exact same wall design, route, and standard hold around the world will allow climbers to establish, and thus break, world records for speed.

The wall is 15 meters tall (49.212 feet) with 4 tracks or lanes. The routes, which were designed by Jacky Godoffe, Chief setter for the IFSC, are around 6c+ (5.11c) and are used by both Men and Women.

Godoffe says the route is based on the letter “S” for speed. “For me a good symbol for a creative route for speed.” Godoffe goes on to say, “Because I’m [a] route setter and I like creative process, I’m not afraid to imagine something caricatured if I did my best in an original concept.”

Godoffe also created the unique holds used for the new speed wall. The original shapes were based on a flying bird (though we don’t know what kind of bird). This hold will carry the burden of world records and could become the most recognized grip in the world.

The IFSC will be partnering up with manufactures to produce transportable speed walls to be used in various continents.

Test walls have been used at the 2005 World Championship, 2005 World Games, and the 2006 Asian Championship.

World Records on Home Soil

USAC executive director Anne-Worley Bauknight, just back from World Cup Chamonix, says, “The US will most likely receive the first set of holds for the wall within a year and will then be looking for candidates that may be interested in constructing the wall itself, here in the states.”

Olympic Dreams

The new speed wall could be a foot in the door when it comes to achieving the all-mighty goal of getting competitive climbing into the Olympics. Speed is the most recognized and understood of all the climbing disciplines.

With the advent of standardized world records Bauknight says that, “[USAC/IFSC] has gotten’ nods from the IOC [International Olympic Committee] that Speed is an appealing discipline that could help to get climbing in the Olympics.”

Video’s 

Peek at this video of the 2005 World Climbing Championships in Munich, which featured a prototype speed wall. With a guest appearance from Jacky Godoffe and his flying bird.
Or check out this homemade video on Joost.

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