Comments on: “S” is for Speed! And Homologated? http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/ Sun, 24 Jan 2010 21:35:36 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.1 hourly 1 By: KIM http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-683 KIM Sat, 23 Feb 2008 22:21:39 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-683 Joe, good indicate^^ Joe, good indicate^^

]]> By: mike http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-265 mike Thu, 02 Aug 2007 15:33:28 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-265 UPDATE: The IFSC has informed me that there will also be a 10 meter wall for gyms with short roofs. There are also 2 lane walls in addition to the 4 lane walls. UPDATE:

The IFSC has informed me that there will also be a 10 meter wall for gyms with short roofs.

There are also 2 lane walls in addition to the 4 lane walls.

]]> By: Joe Czerwinski http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-261 Joe Czerwinski Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:20:39 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-261 I have been involved with the speed climbing for the summerx games and/or asianxgames from 99-05. The big push in the summerx, was to have the same speed route from year to year to establish world records. This never really transpired at asainx becasue of the hold issue. We were always bringing our own holds to the event and other holds were donated from various companies, so trying to have the same holds from year to year was quite difficult. Especially when ESPN would make the wall higher or shorter on whatever the venue allowed. I think having the same speed routes for numerous years sucks for the reason that someone will not recieve a high-paying job to put up an already created route. I think the 100 meter dash is a great comparison. You have a very simplistic course that never changes (outside of weather, no pun intended), yet is is always exciting to see....well sort of. Zlevitt said "put up the same route all over the world so we can see who masters the sequence best. " I dont think this is true. It sounds like the route will only be up for certain comps. Therfore, there will still be an element of execution. The down side........I am sure other countries will take picture and recreate the wall, and do their best to get their hands on the actual holds, or remold the hold so they can train on the closest replica of the route. This was done by the Russians in the summerx. So whoever can wire the route will have the best chance. However, I am sure everyone running the 100m dash has it wired as well. Pick your poison. I know what I like to see in a climbing comp, but that does not mean high dollar sponsors and TV audiences will agree with me. I think many of us would like to see more athletes earn sick dough from climbing. Even have college scholarships for climbing. That would be a great evolution of the sport. I dont see that as selling out, I think we have to look at what millions of non-climbers want to see, and go from there. Lets get out foot in the door and then worry about exposing other elements of our sport. Overall, I think whatever this industry has to do for major television exposure for competition, we have to do. The soul of climbing will still exist in the place it was meant to be.....on the rock. I have been involved with the speed climbing for the summerx games and/or asianxgames from 99-05.

The big push in the summerx, was to have the same speed route from year to year to establish world records. This never really transpired at asainx becasue of the hold issue. We were always bringing our own holds to the event and other holds were donated from various companies, so trying to have the same holds from year to year was quite difficult. Especially when ESPN would make the wall higher or shorter on whatever the venue allowed.

I think having the same speed routes for numerous years sucks for the reason that someone will not recieve a high-paying job to put up an already created route.
I think the 100 meter dash is a great comparison. You have a very simplistic course that never changes (outside of weather, no pun intended), yet is is always exciting to see….well sort of.

Zlevitt said “put up the same route all over the world so we can see who masters the sequence best. ”

I dont think this is true. It sounds like the route will only be up for certain comps. Therfore, there will still be an element of execution. The down side……..I am sure other countries will take picture and recreate the wall, and do their best to get their hands on the actual holds, or remold the hold so they can train on the closest replica of the route. This was done by the Russians in the summerx. So whoever can wire the route will have the best chance. However, I am sure everyone running the 100m dash has it wired as well. Pick your poison.

I know what I like to see in a climbing comp, but that does not mean high dollar sponsors and TV audiences will agree with me. I think many of us would like to see more athletes earn sick dough from climbing. Even have college scholarships for climbing. That would be a great evolution of the sport.
I dont see that as selling out, I think we have to look at what millions of non-climbers want to see, and go from there. Lets get out foot in the door and then worry about exposing other elements of our sport.

Overall, I think whatever this industry has to do for major television exposure for competition, we have to do. The soul of climbing will still exist in the place it was meant to be…..on the rock.

]]> By: mike http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-260 mike Wed, 25 Jul 2007 00:52:27 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-260 Devils advocate... The 100 meter sprint is always the same. Why not speed climbs? Devils advocate…

The 100 meter sprint is always the same. Why not speed climbs?

]]> By: Vincent Cocciolone http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-259 Vincent Cocciolone Tue, 24 Jul 2007 23:23:39 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-259 Hmmm... I understand the idea of having standards... the part of this thing I don't get is, why aren't the official holds symetrical? and why not make the whole thing left, right, left, right, etc. Man that would make for some nice fast times! And it's cooler in my opinion to watch people paddle to the top at blazing speed. I'm likening it more to sprint running. Hmmm… I understand the idea of having standards… the part of this thing I don’t get is, why aren’t the official holds symetrical? and why not make the whole thing left, right, left, right, etc. Man that would make for some nice fast times! And it’s cooler in my opinion to watch people paddle to the top at blazing speed. I’m likening it more to sprint running.

]]> By: danielson http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-258 danielson Tue, 24 Jul 2007 23:21:51 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-258 I agree with the point of variety and creativity completely. Personally I would never want to see standard routes in any difficulty format. I guess I think it's just more realistic to think that climbing will in fact get to the Olympics, at least in speed form, if there is something standard. Ultimately though, I agree that it's better for the sport, the competitor, and obviously the routesetter - if there are changes and creativity. Zach, you're right - that's why there are different slalom courses, golf course designers, etc, etc.. I think the constant pressure is - what will be appealing and professional enough in the minds of sponsors, spectators, organizers, etc...? And I think standardization is appealing in some ways from those perspectives. From a routesetter's perspective, it is stifling.. no doubt about it. I agree with the point of variety and creativity completely. Personally I would never want to see standard routes in any difficulty format. I guess I think it’s just more realistic to think that climbing will in fact get to the Olympics, at least in speed form, if there is something standard. Ultimately though, I agree that it’s better for the sport, the competitor, and obviously the routesetter – if there are changes and creativity. Zach, you’re right – that’s why there are different slalom courses, golf course designers, etc, etc..
I think the constant pressure is – what will be appealing and professional enough in the minds of sponsors, spectators, organizers, etc…? And I think standardization is appealing in some ways from those perspectives.
From a routesetter’s perspective, it is stifling.. no doubt about it.

]]> By: ZLevitt http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-257 ZLevitt Tue, 24 Jul 2007 22:33:54 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-257 I believe that one of the most appealing aspects of climbing is the variety. Whats next, creating standard routes? As someone who has competed oversees in speed, different venues bring different qualities to not just difficulty but also speed. In Bulgaria, the speed routes were really steep (which was the coolest speed climbing ever) and in Scotland they were verticle but really long. When considering the moving towards the Olympics theory, we have to ask ourselves, How much are we gonna sell out our sport to make it? I am a firm supporter in getting climbing into the Olympics, but at the cost of changing one of the most important and valued features of our sport. I don't buy into it. This Routesetter.com a place to share ideas and cools moves and techniques, not lets put up the same route all over the world so we can see who masters the sequence best. I believe that one of the most appealing aspects of climbing is the variety. Whats next, creating standard routes? As someone who has competed oversees in speed, different venues bring different qualities to not just difficulty but also speed. In Bulgaria, the speed routes were really steep (which was the coolest speed climbing ever) and in Scotland they were verticle but really long. When considering the moving towards the Olympics theory, we have to ask ourselves, How much are we gonna sell out our sport to make it? I am a firm supporter in getting climbing into the Olympics, but at the cost of changing one of the most important and valued features of our sport. I don’t buy into it. This Routesetter.com a place to share ideas and cools moves and techniques, not lets put up the same route all over the world so we can see who masters the sequence best.

]]> By: danielson http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-256 danielson Tue, 24 Jul 2007 22:10:17 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-256 I agree with Zach in one sense, but in another I do think this standardization is the best long term approach to seeing this aspect of competitive climbing grow. However, I must admit that what I don't like so much is the climbing itself. Why not 10 footholds thrown into the mix - wouldn't the movement look much cooler and be more about the progression of fluid movement through speed rather than a fair bit of smearing and arm hanging? It might also have created more options for the climbers to use different sequences. That said, I do like the final move A LOT, and the hold itself is cool. I like that there is only one hold throughout. I agree with Zach in one sense, but in another I do think this standardization is the best long term approach to seeing this aspect of competitive climbing grow.

However, I must admit that what I don’t like so much is the climbing itself. Why not 10 footholds thrown into the mix – wouldn’t the movement look much cooler and be more about the progression of fluid movement through speed rather than a fair bit of smearing and arm hanging? It might also have created more options for the climbers to use different sequences. That said, I do like the final move A LOT, and the hold itself is cool. I like that there is only one hold throughout.

]]> By: mike http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-255 mike Tue, 24 Jul 2007 21:57:47 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-255 Zach, good point. Here is what IFSC has to say about it: "The route has already been set for both the 10m and 15m and will be used for all World Record and International Championship competitions. This route will remain fixed for several years through a generation of climbers." You can find more in the newly released <a href="http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/2007/0714_IFSC_HighlightsSpecialEdition.pdf" rel="nofollow">"Highlights Special Edition"</a>. Zach, good point. Here is what IFSC has to say about it:

“The route has already been set for both the 10m and 15m
and will be used for all World Record and International
Championship competitions. This route will remain fixed
for several years through a generation of climbers.”

You can find more in the newly released “Highlights Special Edition”.

]]> By: ZLevitt http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/comment-page-1/#comment-254 ZLevitt Tue, 24 Jul 2007 21:30:59 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2007/07/23/s-is-for-speed-and-homologated/#comment-254 I understand the point of standardizing everything to move to the Olympics, but as a climber and routesetter I think its stupid. Does this mean there will be ONE speed route for the rest of World Cup speed climbing, ever. I can't imagine every bobsledding course is the same? I understand the point of standardizing everything to move to the Olympics, but as a climber and routesetter I think its stupid. Does this mean there will be ONE speed route for the rest of World Cup speed climbing, ever. I can’t imagine every bobsledding course is the same?

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