The IFSC comp schedule is going truly international in August with events in South America and Asia. The majority of World Cup comps are held in Europe and it’s refreshing to see an effort to promote competitive climbing and professionally set routes to a wider audience beyond EU soil.

Here’s a taste of what to expect this month.

IFSC World Youth Championship Lead + Speed. Ibarra, Ecuador.

Ibarra, Ecuador will showcase the next generation of competitive climbers from all corners of the world Aug 23-26. This event is the culmination of a years worth of effort on the part of youth climbers ages 14 – 19 from around the world.

Laurent Laport will be Chief Setter for the event and will also be conducting a route setting course. The course, which has been kept very hush-hush, will serve to train North and South American setters to an international level.

USAC setters Kynan Waggoner and Mike Moelter will be attending the setting course, which will put them on track to becoming the only US setters to be internationally certified.

The organizers of the comp have concentrated much effort in gathering  2000 climbing holds for the event. There seems to be a dearth of holds and grip makers are encouraged to contact the organizers if they would like to donate holds. For more hold info email: fdi@andinanet.net

The wall is being heightened from 15m to 16.5m to meet international standards and the ridiculously strong kids that will be showing up.

La Colmiane, France Masters. Aug 25 & 26 2007.

Though not a World Cup this bouldering comp, which is also known as Open International de Bloc Des Alpes-Maritimes Colmiane-Valdebore, will feature many of the usual suspects from the WC circuit.

The organizers of the event called in the big boys for setting duties. French Chiefs Laurent Boudier and Raphael Cabane will join British Chief Percy Bishton in a “Day of Madness”.

Thats three, count ‘em three IFSC Chief Setters working together and as Bishton says, “fighting over holds”. With a crew like this a competitor may get a little worried. But Bishton gives us a little peek (or warning) at what to expect. ” The usual eclectic mix [of problems]. Laurent with his circus tricks, Raphael with his brutal contortions and my random style (using every available volume to make the most confusing and funky problems I can)! Should be a good bash.”

Since this is not a World Cup (and thus no WC rules) but a Masters comp, the gloves will come off for the fun and games that only a masters comp can create .

The French federation official wall supplier, Entre Prises-UK will provide the walls, volumes and most of the holds.

IFSC World Cup Lead + Speed – Qinghai, China.

The fastidious Chinese federation (CMA) will be hosting a lead and speed World cup in Qinghai, China Aug 10-12.

The Chinese have put tremendous effort into the sport of climbing by building world class climbing walls throughout the country.

The CMA will also be hosting the Asian Championships in Guangzhou later this year.

Korean Chief Setter, Kim Dong-Hyun.

 |   Subscribe to post | Leave a comment