Comments on: Ask Mr. Routesetter – Volunteer Time

By: lary

lary — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 04:09:55 +0000

No such thing as volunteering for nothing. New setters to our gym are compensated with gift certificates that can be used for anything memberships, gear, food etc. After they have proved themselves and they are setting regularly they are paid per route. Boulder problems $5-$20 per route TR’s $15-40 per route and Lead only $20-$50 per route. If we could find a full time setter $25,000-$50,000 per year Anyone looking to relocate to the Boston area let me know. The Rhode Island Rock Gym is opening
Rock Spot Climbing this fall in Boston. http://www.rockspotclimbing.com
email me privately if interested. lary@rhodeislandrockgym.com or lary@rockspotclimbing.com

By: Jess McCauley

Jess McCauley — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 18:04:55 +0000

I am so glad my place is small sometimes. Sometimes… I work way too much! I hope I make it to Bishop on Tuesday.

Much props to all of you out there with walls over 30 ft.

By: wallguru

wallguru — Mon, 27 Aug 2007 00:46:48 +0000

If we are all in agreement that route setting is a skilled trade, perhaps a more appropriate comparison is carpetry, rather than flipping burgers.

Like any skilled trade, aspiring carpenters need a way to learn, and experienced workers need a way to pass on their knowledge. This is accomplished by a formalized, on-the-job training program where you start as an “apprentice”, and work your way up to a “journeyman”, and after nearly two decades of work, become a “master”. As an apprentice you will be slower and will make more mistakes than other more experienced craftsman. That’s to be expected. But so is getting paid.

While the indoor climbing industry is a long way off from such a formalized training system, it still needs to produce new setters and identify more experienced setters with demonstrated skills. While some setters might cringe at the thought of such a rigid training system — and certainly gym owners may reject the prospect of more expensive staff — many setters would appreciate having a more transparent and simplified system for advancing their careers. The current system of having people volunteer without a clear path for advancement is ripe for exploitation.

By: M3

M3 — Sat, 25 Aug 2007 06:08:55 +0000

Your exactley right when you say that we are selling the product that you created. Routes and problems is in a sense are our whole business. Bad routes= unhappy customers. Ok routes=uhappy customers. Good Routes= happy one time customers. Amazing Routes=happy Return customers. So given that it is to be expected to undergo a trial period(each gym will be diffrent) in which setting quality and efficency will be examined. The trial period will typically decide first off if the gym wants you to set and if so, how much setting, what kind of setting, grade ability, and how much you will get paid.

By: shawd01

shawd01 — Fri, 24 Aug 2007 01:08:09 +0000

At the gym I work at It takes from 2 to 4 hours to set a route, because our wall is a 50 ft tall that is outdoors, and 100 degree temps. don’t help.

By: aaron-gibson

aaron-gibson — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 15:35:10 +0000

I’ve been climbing in gyms (home and commercial) and setting since ‘92 and for the majority of those years I did not get paid – and did not expect to get paid. I’m a sick individual in that I like setting so much that I would do it for free – or at least in trade for free climbing. As a soon-to-be gym owner, I am going to want a combination of experience from outdoor climbing and experience setting – NOT necessarily a certification. Before you get paid to routeset you have to prove yourself – think of it as training or an internship rather than a job at a fast food restaurant. I see no similarity – good setting is much more creative than making a macdonald’s cheeseburger (I would hope!). Though I have climbed some routes that felt like they were made on a fast-food assembly line. Those are the worst! Still, I feel you should get something for your services – maybe something in trade – a discounted or free membership – discount on goods, something. And I definently think more gyms need to have a routesetting education program for new setters – give more climbers the opportunity to try it. Finally, to the “Anonymous” writer – if it takes you 4 hours to put up a route – no offense – but keep practicing.

By: Louie Anderson

Louie Anderson — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 15:33:25 +0000

Many gyms also have “trade members” who set. This allows the setter to have a membership, paid for with an agreed upon number of hours of setting.

This should be the minimum you receive once you’ve set a couple of climbs and they are happy with your work. While an intern period is normal and should be expected, you should not have to donate your time and efforts entirely without compensation. If this is what you’re doing talk to the Head Setter or facility management about setting you up as a trade member.