Bolt-Holes Be Dammed
November 5th, 2007Filed in How-to
As setters we love holds. We love what we can do with them and how they make us look creative when we’re really not. We browse through grip makers’ websites for hours. Staring, perhaps drooling, pawing at the screen wishing we could feel the uniqueness of their texture. Our affinity for grips knows no bounds.
But every one of these wonderful grips have a feature, that while absolutely necessary, can be a killer of sequences and a destroyer of reputations: The bolt-hole.
Sure we need some way to attach the thing to the wall. And until someone invents magnetic wall panels they’ll probably be around for quite awhile. But hold designers are still creating shapes with holes so deep that a savvy climber can plug it with one of their dainty little digits.
Most of the time this isn’t a problem. Using the bolthole as a mono is usually way harder than the intended grip position.
However, this cursed cavity has become problematic on the large double-handed slopers that have become popular these days. A setter putting one of these holds with an unplugged bolt-hole onto a comp route made for kids is looking to play Russian roulette with their sequence.
The other time those pesky bolt-holes get in the way is when a climber can use them as a thumb catch. From the first day in the gym, indoor climbers learn the advantage they can get from pinching the bolt-hole.
Rules? There Are No Rules
Even though it’s very unsafe for a climber to shove their finger in the death trap that is the bolt-hole, there are no rules against doing so. Neither USAC nor the IFSC has rules on their books against using a hold’s bolt-hole.
1. Take a two-foot (or so) long piece of standard issue setting tape.
2. Loosely bundle the piece of tape into a cylinder-shaped ball that is longer than it is wide.
3. Stuff it. Shove that ball of tape into the offending bolthole. Be careful not to pack it in unless you never plan on moving the hold again.You may have to put more tape in the hole to fill it up. But using one
single long piece will make it much easier when its time to get it out. Try to make the tape flush to the holds as best you can.
Pulling It Out
If you’ve used one piece of tape this should be an easy process. Simply grab it and pull. If the tape has made its way deeper into the hold you will probably need to use a tool to get it out. Insert a small (7/32) wrench and scrape the tape to loosen. A pair of needle nose pliers could also come in handy.
There you have it. A great way to not look like a rookie.
November 5th, 2007 at 4:12 am
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