By Mark Bradley

Route Setters are not machines. As much as our managers would like to think so, we cannot manufacture quality routes everyday without fail. We’re creative, inspired and needy craftsmen.

Some days we’re inspired just by the way the sun rose that day or more directly by an ancient sequence from a long ago route. And we need things like good hold choice and unencumbered walls.

But even when setters have the best day and get everything they want it still might not come together. As setters there are usually three issues that keep us from setting mega classics every day.

Setters Block: No matter what you can’t seem to create a problem.
Ruts: When all your problems and routes seem to be exactly the same.
Boredom: Another day setting on the same angles of the same walls with the same old holds.

The crew at Vertical Heaven climbing gym have devised a way to help fight those problems. They call it, THE GAME. Not only have they found THE GAME to be helpful in these situations but it has also helped to fine tune their skills as setters.

Here are the steps to THE GAME.

Step 1: Assignment
Each setter will assign grade, location and which holds can be used. Generally go with sic hand holds and five foot chips for a 15 ft. bouldering wall. You must use ALL of your assigned holds, no less and set the assigned grade in the provided location.

Step 2: Time
Agree on a set amount of time. (30 minutes works well). Each setter will have this amount of time to set and tape their problem.

Step 3: Set
Once time begins, this is when you will first see the holds you have to work with. You now have your set time to make a masterpiece. This step is when the majority of trash talking and wrench stealing will take place. (This may actually take up more time than actual setting.)

Step 4: Evaluation
Once the problems are complete, the setters will climb both problems. Determine if the correct grade was hit and if the problem flows and is fun.

Step 5: Declare a winner
If one setter did not complete his/her problem in the set amount of time he automatically loses. If both problems are finished than it goes to grade, if you don’t hit your grade than you lose. When both of those requirements are met than you decide which problem is more fun or flows well. Sometimes there is a clear winner and other times it’s a draw.

Special Rules / Additional ideas:
In rare cases a setter may ask for an additional hold or change of hold. This however does qualify as an automatic loss if your opponent hits his grade in the set time. An opponent does not have to grant his competitor his request. But I can guarantee you that it will be remembered the next time.

Sometimes it’s fun to require a specific move or style to be set. For example a rose move must be incorporated or the climb cannot have a single reachy move.

Have fun and get creative with it.

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