At the recent edition of the SCS Adult Nationals in Salt Lake City, Utah there were more than just the usual suspects waiting in iso.

Warming up alongside the highly trained and talented competitors were four professional routesetters. These climbing-setters have been slinging plastic for a long time and knew just what they would be up against. Three of the four setters are National setters and frequently set top-level comps where the majority of these climbers compete.

The setters also knew the setters of this comp: Kevin Branford & Molly Beard. These two are long time National Setters and the climbing-setters knew them well.  And of course Kevin & Molly also knew the strengths and weaknesses of the climbing-setters. Would they use this knowledge for good or for evil?
Even though the climbing-setters made a respectable showing, it was Virginia based setter Jeremy Hardin and pro-setter Mike Moelter who crushed the qualifiers and made it to the finals round.

After finals were said and done, Hardin had maintained his the 10th place position and Moelter dropped from his qualifying position of 5th place to 7th.

Routesetter.com wanted to know what it was like to compete as a setter. So we reached Mike Moelter in Boulder, Colorado to find out what his thoughts were about the routes, what he learned and if it’s important to compete as a setter.

RS.com: You competed at the recent SCS Adult Nats. What did you see as a routesetter in those routes?

Mike Moelter: First, that maybe I had a chance? Second, maybe not? Something that did actually keep coming back to me was the length. The setters chose lines that had a bit of traversing but in terms of what they could have created the length was a lot less than what they could have been. Which at first I thought was maybe a bit disappointing, but then they started to make a lot of sense in terms of where the sport is at currently. I mean, if you watch the video of the female super final and see how Emily Harrington jumps for a hold up top; it is much more exciting then what previous rope comps looked like. Long meandering pump fest routes that are like watching paint dry are a thing of the past. Shorter more power endurance dynamic routes are it’s at.

RS.com: Did you learn anything from competing that will help your setting?

MM: I think that setting with tape is the way to go, even if all the holds are the same color. We are so trained to climb the tape that it just is the way to go. Over the years I have set comps using either method and the no tape style has always bit me in the ass one way or another. It usually is a foot hold in the shadows that no one sees and if I would have used tape it would have been a non-issue.

RS.com: The Q1 Mens route had a no hands traverse right off the bat. Even though nobody fell there, do you think that was a risky move by the setter?

MM: Right. The no hands traverse, very daring. Not a single person fell and it made for a pretty exciting first route. Taking a chance like that is always touch and go, but in the right place at the right time it’s a good thing to implement.

RS.com: Will you compete again?

MM: I will compete as long as I climb. I was the oldest finalist and loved ever minute of it. Let me throw out a prediction: SCS Open Nationals 4th place next year. BAM!

RS.com: Would you rather set or climb at comps?

MM: One high profile comp a year is good enough for me. Setting is were my crew is at. Kynan, Molly, Scotty Mechlar, these are my folks and being behind the scenes with them is a trip that I wouldn’t miss for the world.

RS.com: How important is it as a setter to compete?

MM: Ya know, this is like how important is it for a setter to even climb. Setting is such a case by case thing that it can go either way. For me it is real important. I get to feel the nerves and the anxiety that the competitors feel, and that’s such a big part of how these things go down. Also for me personally there is no better way to gauge my fitness. As long as I’m top 10 I feel like I should be in the game again, that is my personal feeling.

RS.com: If a setter sets at the national level is it to much to ask that they compete every so often at that level?

MM: Yes it is. There are just too many good setters out there both commercial and competitive that would never compete or do not even climb. Again it is a case by case situation. Plenty would benefit 10 fold if they climbed in a high profile comp once a year; others it would make no difference.

RS.com: Why did you fall so low on the finals route?

MM: I fell so low because I had to get on the MC asap. Kynan was killing the comp. I have been training him as of late but man we still have some work to do. 4th is in the bag next year though….right.

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