By: Chris Danielson

For me, routesetting is most fun and most rewarding when it becomes an intellectual challenge – when actualizing an interesting creative goal demands analytic problem-solving.

When setting, I sometimes try to build unique sequences I have never quite seen before, or to create my own take on established climbing movements.

In this effort, I tried to set a complicated sequence that starts from a set of specific goals revolving around the creation of more hand movements than there are hand holds.

In the video below, a good friend of mine and strong boulderer from New York, Ian Irving, climbs a problem in which the challenge was to force the use of multiple single-directional handholds with both hands on each hold at different times – without matching hands on a single hold – and without bumping movements, where the climber would simply move hand to hand from one hold to the next in a single direction.

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A key part of this challenge was also to force the use of the same grab surface for each hand… i.e. not simply to create a sequence in which the climber grabs one part of a handhold, and then comes to a different part of the hold (such as an opposing sidepull or undercling) at a later point with the other hand. The intent was to force use of the same single grab surface of each hold with each hand at different times.

In this short problem, there are seven climbing holds total. Five handholds are used: a START, FINISH, and three key “sequence” holds (HANDHOLDS 1, 2, 3). Additionally, there are two footholds.

Some of the key considerations in forcing the particular moves in the video sequence include:

• The START hold must be large enough to generate comfortably off of, a large distance dynamically, and then be used secondarily as a foothold – in this case with the forced bicycle.

• FOOTHOLD 1 in the problem must be placed far enough away, in the opposite direction of the climber’s initiating movement to the first “sequence” hold, such that the climber cannot jump comfortably all the way to HANDHOLD 2.

• The distance between the START and HANDHOLD 2 must also be great enough that the climber cannot comfortably bump from HANDHOLD 1 to HANDHOLD 2, or if they can do so, the span will be so great that positioning the feet on the START will be too difficult.

• FOOTHOLD 2 must be placed far enough away from the starting sequence, so that the climber cannot reach it with his left foot until both hands are on some combination of “sequence” holds.

• Each of the three “sequence” holds, HANDHOLDS 1, 2, and 3, must be single directional, not easily match-able, and oriented at such an angle that matching on any one hold is either too difficult or futile.

• The distance between HANDHOLD 3 and the FINISH hold must be significant enough and in such a direction that the climber cannot move to the FINISH without getting HANDHOLD 3 with his RIGHT HAND, in other words, the climber cannot dyno to the FINISH from any other hand positioning.

This is a relatively complex and difficult (about V8) example of the exercise of forcing movement in routesetting. However simple or complex the route, the overall point in forcing movement is to create a challenge, and determine all the conditions necessary to create the solution.

For new routesetters, sometimes it is helpful to start with simple goals – a single move at a time – and once successful in the first challenge, to experiment further through self-imposed limitations – whether using a single hold brand, color, style, or set; building on specific terrain; setting within a specific grade range; or creating progressively more difficult movement.

Here are a few fun two-step challenges:

Set a barn-door move on a vertical arête…
Then set a barn-door on a single angle, slight overhang.

Set a double-clutch dyno…
Then set a double-clutch dyno to two handholds.

Set a forced heel or toe-hook sequence…
Then set it such where the foot movement is above the climber’s head.

Set a run and jump start…
Then set a run and jump start by using multiple footholds in the run sequence.

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