Comments on: Into The Mind of a Setter http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/ Sun, 24 Jan 2010 21:35:36 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.1 hourly 1 By: danielson http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/comment-page-1/#comment-789 danielson Tue, 13 May 2008 18:07:18 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/#comment-789 Thanks James. This was a first effort. I may do some more things like this if there's interest. I did a workshop this past week in Boulder at the CWA Summit and focused a bit on forcing movement. I think one way to start, in terms of always trying to keep oneself energized for setting - is to make a list of all the moves you've tried to force, seen forced, or want to force. Then try to tackle them one by one, then on different terrain types, then with different hold brands. The more you limit/challenge yourself, in certain ways - the more you learn about the process - and you can do that even by just starting at the beginning with back-steps, high-steps, cross-throughs - and make notes on why specifically one thing works when you get it right, or doesn't, if you get it wrong. The more you understand the movement intuitively, the more you're able to execute forced sequences effectively and efficiently. Thanks James. This was a first effort. I may do some more things like this if there’s interest. I did a workshop this past week in Boulder at the CWA Summit and focused a bit on forcing movement.

I think one way to start, in terms of always trying to keep oneself energized for setting – is to make a list of all the moves you’ve tried to force, seen forced, or want to force. Then try to tackle them one by one, then on different terrain types, then with different hold brands.

The more you limit/challenge yourself, in certain ways – the more you learn about the process – and you can do that even by just starting at the beginning with back-steps, high-steps, cross-throughs – and make notes on why specifically one thing works when you get it right, or doesn’t, if you get it wrong. The more you understand the movement intuitively, the more you’re able to execute forced sequences effectively and efficiently.

]]> By: James http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/comment-page-1/#comment-788 James Tue, 13 May 2008 00:06:02 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/#comment-788 Chris, Thanks for posting this! The terrain at the college gym where I set is, in a word, uninspiring. And the hold selection is pretty miserable. The one thing that keeps me motivated to set is trying to put up crazy sequences. Forcing movement is easily both the most difficult and most enjoyable part of setting for me, and seeing tips for forcing specific sequences is extremely helpful. I really enjoyed taking a setting clinic from you, and my one suggestion would be to add more emphasis on forcing movement. Please, please, please make more of these. If you put out a DVD of nothing but forcing sequences, I would be first in line to buy it. Chris,
Thanks for posting this! The terrain at the college gym where I set is, in a word, uninspiring. And the hold selection is pretty miserable. The one thing that keeps me motivated to set is trying to put up crazy sequences. Forcing movement is easily both the most difficult and most enjoyable part of setting for me, and seeing tips for forcing specific sequences is extremely helpful. I really enjoyed taking a setting clinic from you, and my one suggestion would be to add more emphasis on forcing movement.

Please, please, please make more of these. If you put out a DVD of nothing but forcing sequences, I would be first in line to buy it.

]]> By: danielson http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/comment-page-1/#comment-786 danielson Mon, 12 May 2008 20:05:33 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/#comment-786 Travis - if you click on the video on this post - you can see there is another video to the right under the screen name "studying movement." That is another version of the bat hang, at the same gym, which was completely forced. The key to the flow of the sequence was to drop the left leg directly over the head to bring body weight down where the hands were, and counter-act the swing. Not as dramatic as the So Cal comp video, but still cool. The video of Carlo on the bat hang I set in So Cal seems a little scarier because the angle is much greater, and there's a real "bang" when you hit the wall underneath, but no one was hurt and many people tried it. Certainly safe padding is extremely important. Travis – if you click on the video on this post – you can see there is another video to the right under the screen name “studying movement.” That is another version of the bat hang, at the same gym, which was completely forced. The key to the flow of the sequence was to drop the left leg directly over the head to bring body weight down where the hands were, and counter-act the swing. Not as dramatic as the So Cal comp video, but still cool.

The video of Carlo on the bat hang I set in So Cal seems a little scarier because the angle is much greater, and there’s a real “bang” when you hit the wall underneath, but no one was hurt and many people tried it. Certainly safe padding is extremely important.

]]> By: Aaron Guiles http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/comment-page-1/#comment-785 Aaron Guiles Mon, 12 May 2008 19:40:42 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/#comment-785 Scooby, here's a nice video of Carlo Traversi doing a double toe hang (bat hang): http://youtube.com/watch?v=NaGhZVMWU10 (It starts at 1:00) This is a cool way to do it, but it's really dangerous. There are other ways of doing it, but it is really dependent on the type of terrain you are trying to set on. We set one on a nice prow on the right arete moving under the prow ( You can see the wall in this video: http://youtube.com/watch?v=oEH7p3RQEVc ). Kinda scary, but if you position the hand that you're moving to after you hang so that it becomes a fulcrum point - then if the climber's feet cut, they'll swing from their hands and not land on their head. But beware - some really good climbers will most likely find a way to cheat it. (But it is usually just as hard as just doing the bat hang.) Ultimately, it will be the most popular problem in the gym for a while. ;-) Scooby, here’s a nice video of Carlo Traversi doing a double toe hang (bat hang):
http://youtube.com/watch?v=NaGhZVMWU10
(It starts at 1:00)

This is a cool way to do it, but it’s really dangerous. There are other ways of doing it, but it is really dependent on the type of terrain you are trying to set on.

We set one on a nice prow on the right arete moving under the prow ( You can see the wall in this video: http://youtube.com/watch?v=oEH7p3RQEVc ). Kinda scary, but if you position the hand that you’re moving to after you hang so that it becomes a fulcrum point – then if the climber’s feet cut, they’ll swing from their hands and not land on their head.

But beware – some really good climbers will most likely find a way to cheat it. (But it is usually just as hard as just doing the bat hang.)

Ultimately, it will be the most popular problem in the gym for a while. ;-)

]]> By: Scoobyclimbs2 http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/comment-page-1/#comment-783 Scoobyclimbs2 Mon, 12 May 2008 17:05:48 +0000 http://www.routesetter.com/2008/05/12/into-the-mind-of-a-setter/#comment-783 Chris, I thought this was a great demo of how to force movement. I wanna thank you for the hard work you put into the routesetting clinic and CWA. Your ideas and info really broaden the horizon for routesetting, at least for myself. Travis, The Climbing Place P.S. Could you post the video of the double toe hang problem? I could use the beta. Chris,

I thought this was a great demo of how to force movement. I wanna thank you for the hard work you put into the routesetting clinic and CWA. Your ideas and info really broaden the horizon for routesetting, at least for myself.

Travis, The Climbing Place

P.S. Could you post the video of the double toe hang problem? I could use the beta.

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