Interview by: Chris Danielson for E-Grips.
Photos by: Andrew Kornylak

This interview is the first in a series of interviews from e-Grips which profiles some of the best setters out there, working hard in commercial climbing gyms and competitions across the country. These are e-Grips favorite people and we want to support the routesetting community by sharing some of their experiences and background with everyone else!

First up, Kyle Musgrove, Head Setter of Climb Nashville.

Chris Danielson: We first met when you came out to the 2005 Sendfest to help out as a setter, and since then you’ve been at a couple big events with the USAC team – what were those comps like?

KM: From a creative standpoint those comps are great. The setting and climbing are at such a high level it allows for the most creativity in the movement and design of a problem. Setting for those comps can be stressful or frustrating if your vision does not translate well to the wall, but you are able to set at your limit and learn from the other setters as well. It is organized mayhem that all comes together in the end.

CD: You set at the Southeast powerhouse gym Climb Nashville… and from what we hear that gym never has less than 100 people climbing. What makes it so great?

KM: The people make it great. We have an awesome member base and on any day plenty of walk in newbies. As for there always being 100 people, the 2 month turnaround on routes keeps people coming a few times a week.

CD: Did you begin setting at Climb Nashville, or beforehand? How long have you been at it? How did you learn?

KM: I started setting at a small gym with about 30 topropes, 25 foot walls and a large bouldering area south of Nashville in 1998. I’ve been setting for 9 years and setting full time since I graduated college in may of 2004. I am basically self taught. The owner of that first gym I set at gave me a couple tips on what to do, but it was mostly trial and error setting. Since I had no mentor there were probably more errors when I was first setting, reachy moves, no feet, etc. I have always listened to what climbers have to say about my routes or boulder problems and that probably helped me the most as a beginner setter and is still helping me today. I have been setting for comps locally almost since I started setting and comps are great for learning, especially since it usually involves collaboration with other setters. At the Sendfests and ABS Nationals I learned a lot by seeing what is involved with higher level competitions. I will always be able to learn more about setting.

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