American ex-pat, Cody Roth has been living in Innsbruck, Austria for the past four years and is leading the way for Austria’s next generation of routesetters.

At 24 years old he has competed in World Cups and traveled around the world to places like Mexico, Morocco, South Africa, Croatia, Sweden, Italy, Slovenia and France.

Routesetter.com caught up with Cody recently during his off-season to talk about what life is like since moving to Europe. He explains the Austrian certification process, tells us what it’s like setting for the Euro’s and what’s wrong with American gyms.

So Cody, why did you move to Austria?
Cody Roth: I moved to Innsbruck because I really fell in love with the climbing scene here, the mountain surroundings, and of course the chicks!

You’re known to most as a strong climber. But since moving to Europe you’ve picked up a pair of wrenches and have been setting. Why did you start setting?
CR: Actually, I started setting routes at the age of 13 at Stone Age Climbing Gym in my hometown of Albuquerque, New Mexico. I was taught by my mentor and former climbing coach, Lance Hadfield. When I came to Europe I simply pursued it a bit further. I started setting Austrian national competitions with one of my best friends Reini Fichtinger.

I’ve heard that the routesetting certification in Europe can be pretty hard. Can you give us the low-down on what it takes to become certified?
CR: The A-License requires two weeks of courses, previous and adequate prior experience. At the end of the two week course, if you pass the written test and your work and fitness is adequate, then the assessors grant you the license. However you must then set two competitions: one boulder and one lead comp and if those competitions are successful then you are granted your full fledged A-License.

A few years ago I did my A-License and I’d be keen to do my international license in the coming years. Setting is somewhat seasonal work in Europe; nearly all of us are self employed setters [working] where ever we can when need be. In summer the gyms basically shut down across Europe as everyone is on the rocks. The busiest time tends to be fall just before the winter season. However, summer is busy for comp setting.

Continue reading »