Archive for the 'Walls' Category

“S” is for Speed! And Homologated?

Monday, July 23rd, 2007

05 Asian Championships Speed WallThe IFSC will be rolling out the new “homologated speed wall” this summer at the World Championships in Aviles, Spain. This is the world’s first officially sanctioned speed wall design, and will be the only wall recognized for future world records in speed climbing.

The purpose of the wall is to provide a standard platform for speed events at World Cups and internationally sanctioned events. Using the exact same wall design, route, and standard hold around the world will allow climbers to establish, and thus break, world records for speed.

The wall is 15 meters tall (49.212 feet) with 4 tracks or lanes. The routes, which were designed by Jacky Godoffe, Chief setter for the IFSC, are around 6c+ (5.11c) and are used by both Men and Women.

Godoffe says the route is based on the letter “S” for speed. “For me a good symbol for a creative route for speed.” Godoffe goes on to say, “Because I’m [a] route setter and I like creative process, I’m not afraid to imagine something caricatured if I did my best in an original concept.”

Godoffe also created the unique holds used for the new speed wall. The original shapes were based on a flying bird (though we don’t know what kind of bird). This hold will carry the burden of world records and could become the most recognized grip in the world.

Continue reading »