Purely out of curiosity I was wondering how many bouldering problems or roped routes you experienced setters can put out in an hour?
(given different walls heights and difficultly with effect the amount of time)
Amount of Problem/Routes per hour
(11 posts) (11 voices)-
Posted 2 years ago #
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I can do a route in an hour or less, depending on grade, on our 28 foot wall. Bouldering, I can do 3 - 4, also depending on grade and how many moves I put into it.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Excluding stripping (10 minutes), cleaning, hold selection (and bolt placement) (5 minutes - 30 minutes).
I usually spent 1/2-1 hour on a full Toprope route of 15 meters. Depending on inspiration and commitment.
But in cases this has also been 10 minutes or 2 hours. Typically would be 40 minutes or so.Building in our overhang is more hassle with Jumarring up and body position. That would typically take a little over an hour.
I then would need to test and if needed change the route. That will take anything form 0 minutes to 1 hour. typically a couple of footholds and twisting / exchanging 2 handholds.
Competition routes (which are required to have a specific difficulty level) will take a little longer to tweak. If for a competition I screw up big time and make a 7b in stead of a 7a I just make a additional route as most of the time that is easier / quicker than changing a 7b to 7a and will most likely result in nicer route.
If it's not a competition i just leave the 7b as it is.As far as bouldering is concerned:
I've once set 30 boulders in a single afternoon, but those were not the nicest boulders.
And I've set 9 boulders with 2 people duting 3 days of work for a competition final.Typically would be 10-15 boulders in a afternoon
Posted 2 years ago # -
I can usually throw up a route in 45 mins - 1 hour (including stripping). As for boulder problems, they have a greater range due to number of holds/moves, but on average, 15 problems in about 4 hours. Comps are a totally different story as the work involved is a lot greater.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I only set boulders, and due to time constraints/etc, only when the gym is open. I'd say I average a half hour per problem - more on stuff in our cave, less on easier terrain.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Yah i think for just setting, no stripping or washing, i can do a 22 foot 5.10 in between 20 and 40 minutes, average probably 35 or 40, but sometimes it can take 2 hours to dial in a really crazy sequence.
for boulders... i have set really nice 6 move V5'S in five minutes, but i have also set bad 6 move V3'2 and its taken 30 minutes.
I find that it ALL comes down to wether or not you had something in mind first. If you know right what your going for it takes no time, but when i you HAVE to set some 5.10whocares on some wall and you don't want to do it, it takes longer.
Comp setting takes A lot longer
Posted 2 years ago # -
We have 55ft rope walls (up to 80ft lead out cave) so I am scheduling for setters about 2 tr's on average, or 4-6 Bp's, or 1 lead route per 4 hr shift. This includes clean up and forerunning.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Right now I am set about 1 route every 2-3 hr on our 50 ft wall... However if I set multiple routes at once I can set 3 routes in 4 hrs.
Posted 2 years ago # -
30min.-2hr. for TR's and Leads depending on length, distraction, tweaking, etc. 3-4 problems/hour for bouldering.
I haven't broken it down, but for comps with 50+/- boulder problems, 4 of us stripped, washed, organized, set, taped, graded, and cleaned it all up in 28-30 hours.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I'm on a 25 foot entreprise wall and I can usually get a route up in 45-60 minutes including holds selection/forerunning/etc.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Our routes are anywhere from 45-140 feet in length. If I'm drilling from scratch - "routesmithing" - a route can take about 3 weeks. I recently added a two pitch climb (which will open this Spring) - 150 feet tall and probably 170 feet in length with the traversing/angling sections. It took over a month to build - mainly because of weather - and we designed/built this special edge protector and box roof for the top of the first pitch where it tops out on the silos. The second pitch is up an arete for 55 feet.
If I'm setting something shorter - 40-50 foot range - it's about 1-2 hours.
Boulder problems - just spinning holds and adding a few here and there - 15-20 mins per problem. With removing holds and starting from scratch - maybe 30 min to 1 hour per route.
Currently have a bouldering series going on (The Four.Zero.Five Bouldering Series) - and I set about 20 problems. It's basically a local event with about 30-35 competitors once every 3 weeks. For that it takes me about 4 days of work in 2-3 hour sessions each day (give or take).
Our gym requires a unique skill set different from most other gyms so it's a unique experience.
Posted 2 years ago #
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