So, I had a guy come in to the wall yesterday, having never climbed before, but really excited to try. He was paralyzed from just below his pecs down, but had very strong arms and shoulders. Because of his condition he said he couldn't land or contact the ground in any way when he fell so we experimented to see how high he would have to get on the overhung jug haul in order to swing free. He made it. Barely. And it was really stressful from our end of things. I've never had experience with this situation before. Has anyone had more experience with this? Suggestions for the future? How could we make it safer and friendlier?
Belaying paralyzed climbers
(6 posts) (5 voices)-
Posted 1 year ago #
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I'll bite!
Definitely start by adapting a chest harness to protect the head. The only way a really see him enjoying himself is climbing on steep juggy terrain. To make it easier on him I would suggest following on a lead climb so that he is clipped in close to the wall to prevent big swings.
Other than that?!?!?!
Talk about challenges... I get pissed when I sprain my ankle!
Posted 1 year ago # -
I'd recommend contacting Malcom Daly, the head guy at Trango. I'm pretty sure he is involved with a group that helps less-able people get into climbing (can't remember the name of the group though).
Mal is very approachable and a really nice guy: email is "MDaly [at] gthi [dot] com.
Posted 1 year ago # -
We had a regular climber come in who had little control of his legs. We used a chest harness as mentioned above. A gri-gri was very useful as he didn't have the strength to campus 40'. He would pull-up and we would take the slake. Rest/set his hands and repeat.
Knee pads are really helpful on terrain that isn't overhung. The climbers knees may get scratched and blood on the wall is no fun.A head wall with lead clips is helpful just know that the lack of leg control to keep the body close to the wall causes the rope to pull against the carabiner and makes it hard to unclip.
I personal did not use a ground anchor so that I could assist them out of their chair and back in. I could also then easily control slack by stepping forward and back. If on an overhung wall and not using the clips, when the climber comes off the wall you can have them grab your rope and walk them back over to the wall.
Anything else please send me an email. carpenjl at muohio . edu
Posted 1 year ago # -
Thanks for the input! I really appreciate it!
Posted 1 year ago # -
We've had several climbers at our gym with various forms of physical challenges. I think that it's great that you guys made the effort and took the time to work with this climber. It's a population of individuals that is often overlooked in climbing and at gyms and one that needs more attention. In fact, climbing is a great sport for many with various forms of rehab issues, physical, and mental challenges. In June we (Rocktown Climbing Gym) hosted a climbing event for The Endeavor Games, which included injured soldiers, amputees, and other with physical differences. We make an effort to cater to those with special needs.
Because I am not an expert in climbers with special needs, I think it is very important to have someone present who is experienced in working with the specific kind of need that your climber(s) might have. We have a a climber that has a physical difference and we have a climber that is a prosthetic specialist - both were very helpful in making our climbers feel comfortable. Finding help from someone that is a specialist or experienced climber in this field is extremely valuable. There's such a range in terms of needs - some are more manageable than others - and in terms of safety and making the experience enjoyable. In any case, I think the main thing is that gyms make some sort of effort to be inclusive, available, and attentive to all those wanting to experience climbing in some form.
Again, I think it says a lot that you made the effort, and that's enough to learn from, so it's likely to only get better the next time around.
Posted 1 year ago #
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