"Coaching Climbing" by Michelle Hurni
"How to Climb 5.12" by Eric Horst
"Conditioning for Climbers" by Eric Horst
These are all books I've read and took something from.
Has anyone read "Sport Climbing: From top-rope to redpoint" by Andrew Bisharat??
The "Self-Coached Climber" is a must for any coach!
Not a book but one of my favorites...
"Perfomance Climbing" by Dale Goddard and Uno Neumann is a classic and often over-looked treatise.
I need to give strong props to "The Self-Coached Climber". It is well thought out and directed.
G
I think the rock warriors way is the most valuable book for any climber.
It is also valuable for coaches, as we all no a lot of the young athletes have mental problems related to self image and things... there 13 thats what happens when your 13. they also... like all of us get scared!!
I think that reading that book and understanding how the mind works for climbing is important for any coach.
Although it is not specifically intended for rock climbing training, "The Naked Warrior" by Pavel Tsatsouline is an invaluable tome for any coach. The book focuses exclusively on body-weight exercises that will improve your strength, flexibility, and range of motion without building unnecessary bulk. These exercises are especially helpful when designing a training program for children, as weight lifting and heavy resistance exercises are not appropriate for climbers under the age of ~15.
As a rock climbing coach, you should develop a working relationship with other resources in your area as well. I would recommend befriending a pediatrician, a well-read gymnastics coach, and/or a wrestling coach. When designing a sound training program for rock climbing, remember that you do not have to reinvent the wheel. Build on the knowledge of others and research the training of young athletes in similar sports (gymnastics is a good choice as the sport is very old, thus the research for proper training and injury prevention is widely available).
Happy climbing!
--Dan Fenner
and I'll second .. "Perfomance Climbing" by Dale Goddard and Uno Neumann
Body Mind Mastery by Dan Millman - is another good one for the psychology of climbing and sports in general.
If any of you reads Spanish I would suggest
• Planificación del entrenamiento en escalada deportiva David Macià Ediciones Desnivel 2005
• Entrenamiento en escalada deportiva. Consultorio http://www.desnivel.com David Macià Ediciones Desnivel 2004
David Maciá is well known coach, he coached Ramon Julian and Edu Marin since their beginning in climbing.
and other climbers like Berta Martín, Yuji Hirayama, Sara Aicart, Gerard Rull, Andrea Szekely.
He coaches also other top athletes in different sports like mountain Ski, trail running, Biking, Swiming,
David is known by bringing to climbing several methods from other high level sports, and for developing ways to quantify difficulty and training load in climbing.
His work with Ramon and Edu is remarkable, they both appeared with 16 years doing 8b onsigth and 8c with 2 or 3 tries, and their evolution went top from there with both of them achieving 9a+ and 8c onsight and regular world cup finals and podiums.
I love buying cheap balls! Do tell us more about it
1. "Performance Rock Climbing"- Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann. Phenominal for general climbing wisdom and training methods/theory
2. "The Rock Warriors"? I think it's called. I hear it's good for mental aspects
3. "The Tao of Jeet Kune Do"- Bruce Lee. If you read this with an open mind and relate it to climbing...it's Brilliant! It mentions alot about balance, mental training, and core workouts and lifting.
In the beginning there was Performance Rock Climbing, and it changed the way i thought about climbing and coaching.
Then there was all of Horst's books: Training for Climbing, How to Climb 5.12 etc and he showed me how to organize my workouts.
And then there was The Self Coached Climber, and I saw the light.
Dave MacLeod's new book "9 out of 10 Climbers Make The Same Mistakes" is easily one of the best climbing training books I have read.
You beat me to it
"9 out of 10 Climbers..." is a great book for new and seasoned climbers alike. I've recommended it to numerous climbers. It's rare that you can find the level of professionalism in sport science and also be at the top of one's game in terms of climbing like Dave MacLeod. Lot of good advice and not just a bunch of strength training plans, etc. Highly recommended.
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