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1. Fred
   Member

   Hi!

   I having some trouble on scheduling the competition time for a lead comp, I'll have 60 competitors with a maximum climbing time of 6 min per climber. Simple math would give me 6 hours of competition (I would normally follow this), but my experience says that it would be less than 2/3 of that.
   Does anyone has any proven method to calculate the needed time?
   This is a Lead competition.
   The major problem is that I've 1 day to put up 3 phases of competiton: Qualification (flash), Semis(Men/Women) and Finals(Men/Women), and still have time to set (with a crane) each route in between.
   This is the 3ed year I set and organize this comp but for first time everything will be run on a single day, so things need to be on clock and to workout really smooth.

   If anyone is prolific with miracles or time wrapping that would help too

   Cheers

   Posted 1 year ago #

2. Molly Beard
   Member

   Hey Fred,
   Best way to accomplish this is determined by how much wall space and extra hands you have.

   If you have LOTS of space, set all the routes ahead of time, but 'mask' the semis/finals with extraneous holds. Then you only need to pull down the sucker holds between rounds. This should take less than an hour...depending on how much help you have.

   If you do not...well you are in for a really long day. Set everything, photograph them, tick and number the wall and the holds, then save them in order on a string or a carefully packed crate. So day of you need to strip the previous round and set the next. A much longer process, unless you have lots of hands to do the work.

   As far as time to run the event. If you are running single routes per category then you are having the next climber come out as soon as the first is done. This is frequently refered to as 'rolling clock'.

   Presuming your wall is in the 30-40' range, and assuming you set routes with zero rests, I plan on 3 minutes per climber, provided you have the next guy right there, tied in and in a chair waiting to go (no lag time).

   Good luck!

   Posted 1 year ago #

3. Fred
   Member

   Thanks Molly

   The wall doesnt allow more than 2 routes at the same time, I'm used to photograph everything, mark orientations and box every route separately. With a articulated lift and another pair of hands I reset 2 new routes in 1hour and half.
   On competition we have at least two belayers and 4 ropes in order to speed things up and reduce that lag time.

   My major problem is to schedule things and if 4 hours are enough to 60 people climb a 50' route (6min max) out of these 26 will get to next round.
   In my calculations the mens finals would start around 9:00pm/10:00pm considering that the competition starts at 9:00am, it plans to be 12 long hours...

   Posted 1 year ago #

4. Molly Beard
   Member

   So is it 60 people per category? Or 60 total?

   Posted 1 year ago #

5. Fred
   Member

   60 total,
   The qualifications will be 2 different routes on flash, climbed at the same time both for male and female. (every climber climbs 2 routes)
   The Semis and Finals will consist on 1 route onsight each for male and female.
   The quotas are 26 for semis 8 for finals in each category.
   In total I'll have 6 routes in one day. (2 are set from the day before). I'll be setting for 3 days before the comp.

   Posted 1 year ago #

6. Molly Beard
   Member

   Wow. This is a really difficult schedule. I do not envy you.

   So given that they are climbing 2 routes in qualis you really should give them a consistent time frame. Say 5 minutes to climb each route in a 'universal clock' method. This means that it will take 5 hours to run everyone thru qualis.
   +
   1.5 hrs for changeover.
   +
   26 bodies thru semis with the rolling clock, so plan on about 3 minutes per person, and both categories going at once: 1.5 hrs for Semis.
   +
   1.5 hrs for changeover.
   +
   8 bodies thru finals with rolling clock, or about 30 minutes if you run them at the same time, and hour if not....

   =10 hour day minimum, but with check in, delays, ect...sounds like a 12 hour day.

   No miracles can help this. I would think hard about qualis straight to finals or some other way to speed up qualis (one boulder problem, one tr problem...something!). As a competitor that is a hella long day and I (personally) would not sign up, as a setter/organizer....yowza.

   Again, good luck and I hope it turns out well!

   Posted 1 year ago #

7. Fred
   Member

   The problem is that we have a big gap between the top climbers and the majority of other climbers, if we put up only semi's the level will be too hard, for most climbers, if it is too easy we have problems with qualification for next round.
   This was done the last few years and the number of competitors decreased, cause most people would not have any fun competing with only climbing a few meters of a semi final.
   To make climbers life more easy, last years finalist will have direct place in Semis.
   On qualification will divide the competitors in two groups, each groups starts with a different route and then change, allowing at least 50 min rest between routes. So it will work as if it was only 1 route.

   I understand your point, and as a competitor it will be hard but is a hard decision...

   Posted 1 year ago #

8. Herman
   Member

   Hi fred,

   Here is my advice.

   Make sure that your routes have no rests and actually force the climbers to climb fast. Certainly because it is flash people will learn (see) where they can rest. i hope the wall is overhanging....

   You can do some tricks like putting a big volume over the final holds. and use it only in semi's and qualifiers and then take it of. Or, Use a big volume in finals and not before that. But probably that will not speed things up.

   Make sure that no speed is lost in the changeover for the next climber. under IFSC rules they have 40 seconds to prepare but you might want to ensure that the climbers don't take this time, certainly not when doing flash.

   You could ofcourse leave some of the footholds on the wall so you do't need time to put them on.

   I've had some experience with setting two routes on the same wall and having everything in. Typically this was the women finale and the male final. After the female final you take out about half the holds and there is the the men's final. That might work for the transition between Qualifyer and Semi's??

   You could also use this system in a different way. use this system as follows: Set the semi finals using a single hold color, say red, Set the qualifier using blue, green , yellow AND about 50% of the semi finals holds. Use a tape to identify them when testing.

   Also if you can squeze in 3 routes you can make it so that the Mens Qualifyer 2 is the Girls semi's. Maybe change a bit here and there?

   The other obvious solution would be to climb on a specific color. That way you can have more holds up on the wall. you have to be carefull about competitors standing on the wrong color. I don't know the specific wall but it might be so that you can use this to leave about 50% of the holds in the wall without too much chance of people uing the wrong color.

   That systemn will also allow you to have different qualifiers for male and female as i understand that they climb the same now? with flash climbing on a specific hold color should not be a problem as they can watch the route for an hour or so.

   good luck.

   by the way, any pictures of the wall?

   oh, make sure your crane is "charged". That was a Big problem for the Setters at the Youth World Championship in Edinburgh some years ago. in the end they had to first climb the route (which was hard) and then do everything on a rope.

   Posted 1 year ago #

9. Fred
   Member

   Hi Herman

   Thanks for you reply

   Here's a photo of the wall
   and a video of last year's men's final http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhBhE4ADADA

   Last year we almost had that problem with our crane, but we managed to charge it a bit enough to work.

   I will have 2 routes simultaneously on qualification, still don't know about Semis, cause normally I would set routes that cross the whole wall in diagonal using the roof in the middle, or exiting through it. But perhaps if I'll have to skip that to the finals only.
   I set both men and women, and since women compete first the area they share with mens route is the only part needing change, and also to take off some holds we leave around a put one or two that were left to make the line less obvious.

   I will try to follow your advices!

   Thanks

   Posted 1 year ago #

10. Herman
    Member

    So fred,

    I saw the comp was cancelled. What happened?

    http://translate.google.nl/translate?hl=nl&sl=pt&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ambi-reci.pt%2Fafpme%2F

    Posted 10 months ago #

11. Fred
    Member

    We had to postpone the competition till September/October due too the lack of sponsors to pay the expenses.

    I hope we can guarantee the sufficient support to held this competition, that is the most important Lead competition in Portugal.

    Fred

    Posted 10 months ago #

12. helen
    Member

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    Posted 9 months ago #

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