I was just curious to see what everyone thought of the new walls that were debuted at the Dominion River Rock Festival not too long ago. It was billed as the next big step in competition bouldering walls.
I thought that the term bouldering was pretty loose as the problems seemed more like routes to me and the routesetting was less than spectacular or showy.
I'd be interested to see what others think of the new wall system.
Luke
It was certainly awesome to watch. However, I agree about the setting, the only thing jaw dropping was the wall setup itself. Wouldn't want it to become the norm in comps though.
Reminds me of this...
http://youtu.be/lT3D2s8Wav4
That sky climb stuff is not the "next thing in climbing" !!! But I think that the River Rock was another god example of what competition climbing could be. Soon enough someone will figure out whats the best of both worlds.
first off, the wall was really cool. good job thinking outside the box. the comp itself, and admittedly ive only seen what there is to see on youtube, seemed a little bland and lacked the sort of luster in its setting that one would expect with a wall that cool.
To be fair, the first place I saw this type of wall set up was Stone Age gym in New Mexico. Lance Hadfield, I believe, was behind a lot of that. All they did here was present a similar idea on a larger scale...still an impressive concept though...
I found it a bit one dimensional. All the problems wound up looking the same because they were all essentially long roof problems on blobs. I would have found it frustrating as a setter. The wall at first appeared really versitile, but I don't think the possibilities for configuration are all that different. You cant make a slightly overhung crimpy problem, or a fat arret problem.
I also found it uninspiring as a climber. I love seeing a sweeping wall with a few subtly angle changes. Those problems just looked like work!
That said, I think it will progress the sport, even if comps in the future don't look exactly the same. Bottom line: give it a try, you never know.
I think that it is possible to set fun and interesting problems on such a wall. but you'll have to invest in time and energy as a setter.
Make it sort of a extended boulder comp. With tricky / technical moves. Try and give people 5 attempts to climb a "problem" (a long problem that is) that way people will fall off, and try the problem with new idea's and succeed.
What about building it above a city river or a swimming pool?
But the longer the problems... more boring to watch for audience...
I think at such a face to the wall wall top's setting interesting and interesting problem is possible.But you will have to invest and consider as an energy that puts in time.
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