we've been using a crypto iron palm for a while, and we like it, but we're looking adding another more "traditional" fingerboard. what are your personal preferences?
favorite hangboards?
(26 posts) (12 voices)-
Posted 1 year ago #
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I like the Metolius line of hangboards a lot. SoILL makes a pretty good ones as well.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Nicros Infinity Board
http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/2008/09/new-review-and-its-healthy.htmlMetolius Simulator 3D and Project board
http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/2009/12/testing-hangboards-part-one-metolius.htmlDelire Redpoint Hangstation
http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/2010/02/testing-hangboards-part-two-delire.htmlWe're currently training on the Iron Palm as well, but so far the 3D simulator is my preferred board for training... we've got some other boards ready to rumble
Posted 1 year ago # -
Ah, the one I just designed! Seriously... I think this is how hangboards should be made from now on.
But I do like the woodgrips ones, especially when you put them on door hinges and make them tilt just a little!
Posted 1 year ago # -
I've used dozens of hangboards over the years. Everything from the original Metolius Simulator (which had the funkiest outer hand holds ive ever seen!) to promo boards from Franklin (some were sharp as sh-t so I could see why they were never marketed!)My absolute favorite is the Grill from Revolution. Like the Iron Palm, it has huge outer slopers that are as comfy as can be. It also has the right amount of edges and a super hard pinch. The rounded top jug is perfect too. Its a huge board, but definitely worth it in my opinion.
Posted 1 year ago # -
moon hangboard...if you want to get strong fingers this is the only board
Posted 1 year ago # -
Good thinking David, we often forget the climbing population outside of our boundaries, but pound for pound they have more strong climbers and must have been doing something right.
Anyways I found this http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/2000.htm although I have never used it, it does look like a beast!
Posted 1 year ago # -
Wow, the beast does look...well...beastly!!
Im not sure about the depth of the edges, but it looks just like the Metolius Simulator minus the jugs. Those outer slopers look pretty fun!!
Posted 1 year ago # -
i have an old simulator that i'd like to put up in my apartment but i'm not allowed to screw it to the wall. Has anyone here ever rigged up something like these pull up bars? http://www.90dayworkoutplan.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/p90x-chin-up-bar.jpg
Posted 1 year ago # -
if you get two pull up bars that go between a doorframe you can attach the board to those
Posted 1 year ago # -
Ive run into the same situation before. Ive implemented both solutions below with success.
1. Ive built a freestanding pullup bar that consisted of 2 hangboards out of 4x4's and 2x4's. Only cost a few dollars and didnt take up much room. It was kinda like lugging a treadmill around since the freestanding pullup bar with attached hangboards sat in the corner of the room when i wasnt using it.
2. I wasnt allowed to screw anything into the walls of my last apartment, but I was able to successfully install one and then patch up the holes (since they werent too big!) without notice before vacating. If youre handy and want to risk it, it helped me a great deal!
Posted 1 year ago # -
I really like the entreprise "The Machine"
on contrary to most hangboards out there this one is super hard to hang to, is good to work grip strength, and it has some really challenging holds but as usual from entreprise is really well shaped and very safe for finger (Is not a good hangboard for begginers)
The holds attached are a specific entreprise set called power, but it holds any other hold.
Posted 1 year ago # -
that is the most obnoxious hangboard i have ever seen!!!
i want one!!Posted 1 year ago # -
If we take on the way it looks my vote goes for this one from freestone

really well shaped very comfortable, but for stronger climbers you have to to one harm deadhangs to get that feedback > http://freestone.fr/prises.php?ppg=2&NoIDFP=18&NoIDTP=0&NoIDDP=0&NoIDI=0&NoIDP=63&ppn=0&pss=0
Posted 1 year ago # -
Posted 1 year ago #
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I do love a board with pockets rather than a rail, that's for sure
We've looked at a few, soon the Moon Board, that's going to be fun, right now we're playing on the Iron Palm from So Ill / CryptochildPosted 1 year ago # -
Honestly... none of those appeal to me.
Posted 1 year ago # -
if you want to gain finger strength the only two boards you need are the moon and simulator these boards together have everything you could ever want to train...none of these other fancy euro aesthetically beautiful boards cut it, wasted resin.
Posted 1 year ago # -
the only wasted resin is on the boards that don't get used. you can get strong on most boards as long as you use them right.
"if you want to gain finger strength the only two boards you need are the moon and simulator"
I would be willing to bet you could get just as strong or stronger using that last board pictured than with those two boards.
Posted 1 year ago # -
In Europe commercial climbing gyms are not as spread as in US, but even so there are thousands of them, and dozens of holds manufacturers, in terms of high level climbers Europe is huge and its as demanding or more for high quality products than any other market in the world.
When you claim such a rubbish as "none of these other fancy euro aesthetically beautiful boards cut it, wasted resin."
You are just playing silly
There is a big difference in the style of shapes, in terms of holds or hangboards but are two different approaches to achieve the same objective, its hard or impossible to compare these differences on a hold, but on a hangboard I go for the quality of the shapes(to be enough challenging and safe from injuries) and the versatility of the board in terms of different grips and different angles. This is what you need on a hangboard, to be able to train all the kind of grips and angles in get stronger.Have you haver trained on such kind of boards? take a look at Entreprise's The Machine, do you think with those two boards you get the same number of grip positions?
2/Monos, 2/Two finger pockets, 2/different pinches, 2/sloppers, 7 Crimps with different sizes and angle , 10 changeable holds... I count over 22 different grip positions.
Is not the most beautiful board in the market and is quite big, but I really think is one of the best you can buy.No hard feelings
Fred
Posted 1 year ago # -
> In Europe commercial climbing gyms are not as spread as in US
Hmmm,
In the netherlands we have 25 good commercial gyms (>800 sq metre) for 16 Milion people. that's
3/4 of a milion persons for a gym
Belgium has even more gyns / person.
Germany about the half.I guess the USA has 250 million inhabitants (including al the illegals?)
Does the USA have 300+ good gyms?Posted 1 year ago # -
In Spain you have 45 millions inhabitants, and only 1 poor commercial gym in Madrid and a very small boulder room in Barcelona.
And several small private boulder rooms spread in every town or village. All the other facilities are public owned and very small, with no routesetting or any service associated just standalone climbing walls.
Probably Spain and Netherlands are the maximum deviation in terms of climbing gyms spread in Europe, its difficult to compare both scenes the North American market is more established in therms of plastic at least it's my perception.Posted 1 year ago # -
Fred I would think that USA is more like round the 300 Million mark and I would go so far to say that there are only about 50 really sound/solid gyms.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I just got done making this. The slopes/dishes/pinches are difficult. I made the rails varied (they go from incut to flat). This is an advanced board. A beginner would have to have there feet on the ground to hold on to the slopes/dishes/pinches. The rails are more strait forward. The workouts I made for it feel pretty good (although being that I'm not a professional climber the harder workout was a challenge). Primarily you use the slopes/dishes/pinches in offsets. Any feedback will be appreciated. Thanks, Morgan
Posted 1 year ago # -

Stoneage hangboard!! Too bad Stoneage isn't around anymore.
-Jugs on the top.
-Heinous sloper in the middle on top.
-sloping crimps inside the outer dishes
-slopy dish in the middle on bottom
-pinches
-another set of crimps below the slopey ones
-1,2,3 finger pockets varying depthAm I missing anything?
Posted 1 year ago # -
I dug this up only because we all have our own opinions on everyone elses boards, but what if you were going to make your own board? What would you do differently, what are the must haves and then must nots?!
As you may have read earlier in this thread I am designing my own board, but thought it might be interesting to hear how others train and how they define their goals and therefore calculate their purchase depending on their goals?
Cheers
Posted 1 year ago # -
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