Yo yo! I was just wondering what moves people REALLY like to set. I'm looking for something new to try! :) Commercial setting has me running for the bank and I am afraid I'm setting the same stuff or really contrived (yeah yeah all inside climbing is contrived) stuff in an effort to not be redundant.
I thought I'd start this up as the "Challenge" board for any setters who want to switch it up. Cheers.
I'll probably write some more later when I have some time, but how about a good old-fashioned bump move? Get climbers away from the old left-right-left-right sequencing.
If you do it right, it will be much harder overall if the bump isn't done, in that there may be a dead end situation ahead where the climber is forced to do a hard match (or just fail altogether) as a penalty for not seeing and executing the bump.
Thanks for the suggestion!! I still want to try to force a triple bump!
Couple of my favorite moves to set are campus', dynos, drop downs, and huge cross moves. I also like to make my climbs travrse a bit, keeps it more fun by removing simple going straight up climbing. Most moves can be mixed and matched too, keep that in mind. Like you can do a campus bump, or a sideways dyno, or heel hook into a cross etc. etc. Heres a video with some cool moves to get you psyched.
http://vimeo.com/19379044
Oh and one more, its got some other shit before the climbing so just skip it.
http://vimeo.com/19796535
Forced toe hooks. I've been working on this one for a while, even trying doing them inverted, but someone, not necessarily good climbers, always find a way around it. It's cool to see what other people do to your movement, but I really want to force it.
Forced toe hooks. I've been working on this one for a while, even trying doing them inverted, but someone, not necessarily good climbers, always find a way around it. It's cool to see what other people do to your movement, but I really want to force it.
Two simple ones that are always fun (for me).
1) Hand foot match start move. Put a large hold (Teknik moth is amazing for this!) to the right at waist height, with a relatively chunky foothold about 2 feet directly below it. Have a slightly better left hand about 4 or 5 feet right and about 2 feet up from the other start hold. the climber grabs the left and right hand holds, puts the left foot outside edge and brings the right heal onto the hold... but the next hold right above the head so they have to sorta fall back into it.
2) SUPER SIMPLE! gaston - lock off with a wide foot. gaston in the right hand, left foot out wide with no right foot, next hand hold as far to the left as you can go before becoming height dependent. Super simple and common but sooo good.
Try to force a knee bar, that can be hard on a boulder problem where they wouldn't be using it to rest. Stem routes in a corner with a few " no shadows" scarcely placed is a lot of fun.
And if your gym has no cracks try putting some screw ons together and make a crack climb. These are always a hit!
I like the drop down idea!!
How about a forced bicycle?
Or a standard rose move?
Campus rose?
Bathang? :)
Hand foot match on slab?
Lets keep this discussion rolling! I think everybody can get some good ideas from this!!
Thanks you guys for so many ideas!
Kaleb said, "2) SUPER SIMPLE! gaston - lock off with a wide foot. gaston in the right hand, left foot out wide with no right foot, next hand hold as far to the left as you can go before becoming height dependent."
We've got one setter that sets this kind of move all the time... like, ALL the time... as in, almost the entire climb.
He's a strong climber, but more of a boulder-er so a lot of his climbs are "wide arms and no feet, pull in and throw for the slopper" kind of moves. I work on them because that's my weakest style, but they sure get boring. The other thing is if you're not at least 5'8" you're going to get shut down on every move. (My fiancée is 5'1" so I hear about it all the time!)
I'm a "more technique than brute strength" kind of guy, so I end up setting a lot of forced bumps; hand/foot matches; forced palm smearing/mantles and stemming (in dihedrals); approaching an undercling from the left, matching on it and moving right; semi-wide sidepull/undercling hands and high feet to a high dead-point; and I'm sure quite a bit more.
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