I was wondering if there are any tips from falling into a "rut" with setting. I'm a part time setter as of now with potential to soon set full time. I'll set around 6 routes per work day on a 28' wall, using pretty old holds. Its easy to be creative when the setting days are far apart,and i've done some research over time on learning different setting techniques or how to set for various styles. But any tips to keep new ideas coming would be helpfull.
How can you continue setting exciting routes, as a part/full time setter?
(12 posts) (11 voices)-
Posted 1 year ago #
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Just like in any creative endeavor, setters can get into a "less inspired" phase. A few things to help keep from getting too stuck:
1. Go climb outside. Nothing gets the creative juices flowing like being inspired by nature.
2. Get some new holds. New holds always brings out some fresh creativity.
3. Go "semi-random". Put a bunch of holds in your bucket and don't pay any attention to what hold you grab next, but make each hold work for the climb.
4. Let someone else pick all the holds or even just a theme for the climb.
5. Set something that will be easier for short people and harder for tall people.Just a few ideas.
Posted 1 year ago # -
All great suggesetions acorneau...
I especially like number 1.
but of course also number 2. ;-)Additionally.. you can experiment with screwing other things to the wall... a strip of wood/molding makes great crimp rails. Or PVC w/ grip tape.
Look around and see what's available to you. You'd be surprised what might work.Also, you could try
> Setting from the top down.
> Throw holds up semi-randomly, climb the line of least resistance and tape that as your route.
> Change up in style... Think "animals" .. set for someone who's climbing style is like a cat, monkey, gecko, etc.Posted 1 year ago # -
Whenever I feel a mental block coming on, I switch things up by setting themes. Force yourself to set routes with only crimps, pinches, incut edges, etc... Or you could use two of every shape and have them in tandem (2 crimps to 2 pinches to 2 slopers, etc.). Just doing something different every once in a while helps keep me from getting stale.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Keep in mind that when we are going from something that was a novel "hobby" and full of fun and new experiences into something that is a job, eventually we will learn its dirty secrets and have bad days (or weeks). Of course jobs can be highly enjoyable if you are passionate about it but it is still something that you HAVE to do to make money/fulfill expectations (to your boss). Like any job there will be times when we need to grind it out and do what we are paid to do with little "fun" for us to take from the experience.
I know I have been through this. Showing up to the gym for a head down, get this over with as fast a possible so I can get out of here type setting session. This does not mean that I just slap random holds on the wall, tape it and run.
If you are getting paid to set, then you are now a professional. A professional knows how to create a quality product even when not at his/her best. By hosting comps, climbing at other gyms, getting outside and all the other things mentioned above WILL inspire you. I have found, through my own experience, that "ruts" are short lived. Something always comes along to break it up....it might take several weeks...but it will come.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Thank you for the help I really appreciate it, I have always enjoyed setting and take it seriously at the same time. I want to continue to improve as a setter and this web site offers excellent topics. And please keep the comments coming if you have any new ideas.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Hey atp. So the most important thing as a full-timer is to always know your audience/clientel. If they are happy with your work, chances are you will be happy and on the realistic side, your boss will be happy with you. Job security and all that jazz.
So if you are not already doing so, make a point to be around on busy nights to watch what folks are doing; are they climbing the route/bloc like you wanted? Are there sticky spots? Did they find a way to cheat your sequence? Be sneaky and eavesdrop when someone is just gettting back on the ground (the moment they are most likely to make comments), especially if they don't know you set it.
I see a common thing among newer full-time setters: the idea that every single route/bloc has to be amazing, revolutionary, or ground-breaking in some fashion. While these are things to constantly strive for, you have to realize that in most gyms 80% of the clientel isn't interested in that. They want to climb something that is fun and has good flow. Now that you are full time you might want to start viewing your creativity as a resource like your strength. I.e.-Don't waste it all at once! Strive to set good, solid routes/blocs constantly, but use the crazy-creativity in deliberate doses.
Good Luck! And congrats on the full time too.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Hey atp,
Just a few suggestions:
One of the things I do when setting multiple routes is to make each route different from the previous one. Different types of holds, varying grades (depending on what is needed). Think about other setters' routes that you enjoy climbing, and try to set something similar. As a route setter, I know have my own style. Its good to try to get out of that mold now and then.I find that one of the most telling things is watching people climb my routes. I get to see if they can cheat past the crux; if a move is just bizarre/height-dependent/reachy/painful; if they can use holds that were only meant to be used as feet for hands as well, and so on.
I agree with Molly. I don't worry about every route I set being a "masterpiece". As long as they make the customers happy and flow well, I'm happy with that.
Practice. Practice. Practice.
Best of luck, have fun with it! (That helps too)
Posted 1 year ago # -
Hey atp. A couple of Ideas:
1. Have someone hand you a surprise hold I guess you could say and you have to use it for the grade you're setting. If it's a jug on V9, then get creative.
2. Kind of like number one, but have someone give you a move you have to force.
3. Even better! Combine 1 and 2. So have someone hand you a hold (or a few) and a movement to force with those holds.That makes the day alot more fun and acutally makes you think about what your setting instead of mindlessly throwing up problems/routes.
Cheers!
Posted 1 year ago # -
One tip I think works well if the ground up approach is lacking is to set say five larger holds on the wall then set the rest of the route linking the space in between.
Another tip I can offer is to go to other gyms. I think checking out other gyms works really well to help keep things fresh. Also taking pictures of sequences that are interesting helps to recreate the moves that you liked back at your own gym.Posted 1 year ago # -
yeah i usually set the middle first on roped routes, this gives me some direction and keeps me from setting a cool boulder problem with 20 feet of blandness tacked on the end.
Posted 1 year ago # -
One thing I've been doing lately is setting using only one set of holds and then setting the same or similar problem using a different set. Even though the movement is almost exactly the same the problem can turn out very different and interesting to the members. It is rather challenging setting a forced move on large comfortable holds for newer climbers. And the more experienced climbers like the training aspect of it too. Just an FYI
Posted 1 year ago #
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