how much is too much? « Routesetter.com Forum

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how much is too much?

(6 posts) (6 voices)

Started 1 year ago by Cranky
Latest reply from Aidas Rygelis

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Cranky
Member

I have a setter or two who do not seem to follow my directions and I have to decide if I should fire them or try and get them to come around.

One setter works for pay and has his own ideas about how to do things such as grading and what to set. All he wants to do is argue. The other setter sets for membership and does a good job, but he only like to set in certain areas and grades which interest him.

I am usually easy going and the other 15 or so setters seem to be able to take direction without problems. The member setter does a good job but I find it easier to deal with professionals (this does not include the one who argues as he is not very professional)

Do I go totalitarian or socialist? because I tire of people not getting things right.

Maybe this is more of a gripe than a question.

Cranky

Posted 1 year ago #
tyson
Member

you should fire him or them. plain and simple. it is your program and if he does not want to run things the way you need them run, then he should be let go. leniency is one thing, but getting run over is another. there is no room for that behavior in my program, and most other head setters around feel the same way. it should be no different in your program. the backlash, if there is any, will be minimal, and nothing you or the members who love his routes wont get over real quick.

Posted 1 year ago #
acorneau
Member

If it were me...

I'd fire the first, argumentative guy since he doesn't seem to get it.

The second guy and would tell him, "I need you to set a 5.8 and a 5.9 today. If you don't want to set those, that's cool, we don't need your help today and I'll let you know when we need some more 5.11's." Or something like that.

Posted 1 year ago #
RhoadsClimbs
Member

LOL! Classic scenario. Character manipulation is a fine art, but it's possible to get them to do what you want without a digression into anger. The method of course depends on the target. No way to give true advice without meeting that setter but I would say extreme confidence and straight forward-ness on your part is a start.

Beauty in route-setting is definitely in the eye of the beholder, some people hate stuff others like, but there is very little room for that in a gym. The customers come first and the head routesetter has the job of making it fun for everyone. Route-setters sometimes must be reminded of this from time to time.

I tell people "The buck stops here" and then "The people who argue with me are the ones with the route or problems that I change first." Therefore the more they argue with my tweaks the more I tweak! Simply to get under their skin and assert dominance. Those that don't get that are eventually banned. I've only had to do that once in ten years.

Sometimes, depending on the person, a good way to start the conversation is an obviously over the top "Look mother fucker, you're by bitch, get it?" I say "obviously over the top" because that lets them know the seriousness of the conversation but also adds an element that will catch them off-guard. Like I said, it's a fine art. Good luck!

Posted 1 year ago #
Greg Rupp
Member

you have 15 other setters? holy cow!!!

it seems that with that harem you have enough options to get your setting done and not have to put up with any b.s.

phase out the people who don't jive with your program.

Posted 1 year ago #
Aidas Rygelis
Member

Routes are the product of your gym ( one of). So if your setters aren't creating a good product or are doing it on their own terms, they're interfering. You shouldn't have to argue with your setters or tolerate them only wanting to set certain routes. Part of being a setter is setting everything, not just hard routes/problems, or things that interest you.
15 is however a lot of setters and it seems like you could streamline your operation to those who are actually interested in being a route setter and not just climbing for free.
And dont even get me started on the drama that comes with telling someone you want a 5.11- and they go and set a 5.10- or 5.12+ and dont want to change the route because they like it the way it is. Fuck that shit.
If they're not doing the job, let them go.

In our gym we have
17 60ft routes
30 40ft routes
13 20ft routes
From 5.3-5.13
and between 70-80 problems.
Everything rotates on a 5 weeks schedule.
There are two of us setting.
One of us is the facilities manager who sets routes daily, and teaches advanced classes.
I set routes all day, everday.

Between the two of us we are easily able to keep everything fresh and turning around.
We do however bring in guest setters now and then.

I really dont see the point in having 15 setters, it will only result in headaches. Just keep maybe 5 really good ones.

Posted 1 year ago #

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