Inspiration and Creativity Sources? « Routesetter.com Forum

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Inspiration and Creativity Sources?

(9 posts) (7 voices)

Started 11 months ago by mikemind2002
Latest reply from Aidas Rygelis

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mikemind2002
Member

I set a lot of stuff for a college gym as a student and pick up a lot of the slack in terms of getting new routes up. However, I'm often having trouble coming up with new ideas on my own because I set so many things and we unfortunately are a terribly underfunded gym that hasn't gotten any money to buy new holds in ages.

How do you other setters get inspiration for your problems and is there some sort of thread or page full of ideas for problems and routes that I could use to get my motivation and creativity stimulated?

And not that there's really any chance that people are going to do this, but if you've got free holds and want to toss some at a college gym, I'm not about to turn you away.

Thanks,
Mike

Posted 11 months ago #
Herman
Member

Look at the boulder worldcup moves using the video's by udini.com That should give you some inspiration

Posted 11 months ago #
Small-Time-Okie
Member

Set something completely ridiculous, not hard, just stupid. Then work that into something climbable.

Posted 11 months ago #
Boz3030
Member

How long have you been setting for?

Posted 11 months ago #
ZachTheClimber
Member

I know I find a lot of inspiration from outdoor climbing. Think of a climb you really enjoyed and try to take some elements from that into whatever you're setting.

As was mentioned before, watch climbing videos and when you see something cool, make note of it. I find it harder to get ideas watching a video over doing a climb in real life however, probably due to the fact its harder to see the holds and imagining movement is always harder than experiencing it.

I don't get to set nearly as often as I would like, so whenever I see or do a really cool move, I draw it out in a notebook. Something like this might be helpful to you so that when you go to set, you don't forget all the cool movement you want to create and get setters block. :-)

Posted 11 months ago #
Brannon
Member

If I'm not mistaken there is a long thread about this hanging out somewhere. Lots of good ideas for keeping things fresh.

One of the consistent themes in the thread is the importance of understanding that professional route setting isn't always about fun. Coming in to work, day after day, setting 4-6 routes/problems each day, can (and will) turn into a grind. Call it "meat and potatoes" setting. It's not fancy and flashy but if you do it well, people will love it.

(pause to re-read the old thread...)

One idea I didn't see posted before is to push yourself outside your comfort zone. Are you really into technical crosses with pinches and pockets? Grab some jugs, find a roof, and set a guilty-pleasure-power-route. Or do you usually set powerful crimp feasts? Find some sick slopers and throw up a balancy, don't breath to hard, puzzle. Work on making these new routes as good as you can and get feedback from other setters and climbers. Not only is it a fun way to switch things up, but you will develop more skills with different holds, oft-used walls of your gym, and different techniques and styles.

Posted 11 months ago #
mikemind2002
Member

Thanks for the tips everyone. I've been setting for about a year. I really enjoy the creativity and I think people tend to enjoy what I set. However, bviously everything can't be great (and I know many of mine aren't). I'll definitely try out some of these ideas and I think I want to focus on new ways to use holds because we really don't get any new holds into the gym and it's hard to get original if there's nothing new to play with.

Another problem I often run into is that my problems are too tall. I'm 6'3'' and that can tend to be troublesome when you're the tallest setter in the gym and most people are shorter than you. How do you guys manage to keep problems short enough for everyone? For the most part I do a good job but there are a few people here and there that always feel stretched out on my problems if not shut down. I try to keep them in mind but it's often easy to just get in the zone while setting what feels comfortable to you but is unreasonable for someone else.

Finally, does anyone know if there are still routesetting clinics held in various spots throughout the country? If so, where can I get up to date information on them. It seems all of the websites I've looked at are out of date.

Posted 11 months ago #
Brannon
Member

Setting reachy routes (especially when you are taller) is almost a cardinal sin in route setting. It's something that I struggled with early on also but worked very hard to learn how to control. Also, being tall (I'm 6'4) makes us instant targets when a reachy route is set.

The golden rule is keep every hand hold within the length of your arm. Put you elbow on top of your last hold and your next hold should be close to your fingertips.

This is not a hard and fast guideline. Obviously, placement of feet and body position play a significant factor in how far you can reach. The best tool you have are your climbers at the gym. You will learn pretty quick what the shorter climbers can reach if you watch them struggle on a reachy route. Try and work out what minor tweek could be done to make it more accessible. Try to avoid using the "just add an extra foot" cliche solution to much. Unless...you want to add lots of feet in the first place. Try setting a route that traverses at an angle. Go for around 7-8 moves. Hard enough to be difficult, but climbable for a majority of your clients. Use slopers and big pinches to force the feet to do most the work. Use LOTS of feet. Make the climber figure out the proper foot work sequence. It might be different for everyone. Watch what the shorter climber use and then try the route yourself using the same sequence. You'll get a feeling for what it feel like to "climb short."

If you have a 12 year old who hangs out at the gym and is climbing moderate routes, have them try it out before you tape it. He/she would be thrilled if you let them forerun a route.

Posted 11 months ago #
Aidas Rygelis
Member

I find the best way to stay inspired when pumping out lots of routes is to climb stuff you didnt set. Climb what you set obviously to make sure it all makes sense, but climbing something that you don't know the sequence through can really help keep the interest going. I make a point to climb at several other gyms other than mine, and at mine, to climb routes I didn't set.
The tallness factor...I'm 6'6, but nobody who climbs my routes knows that. When forerunning always pay attention to how extended your limbs are. Is your arm straight when you grabbed the next hold? Was your knee bent? How bent were they? You can also wrap a ring of tape around your forearm and use that as a indicator of what how far someone with a shorter reach can get. Most of the time, I count bolt holes. Ours are spaced about a foot from each other so its an easy way to figure out if someone can reach holds.
Like Brannon already mentioned, you can always add foot options which double as intermediate crimps which for smaller lighter climbers will offer bypass sequences, as long as its not drastically more or less difficult than your intended sequence. If you can, get some shorter climbers to forerun for you and pay attention to how they move in contrast to you.

Posted 11 months ago #

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