so after 1hr and 45 minutes in a harness (thank you petzl), bret and I were able to get le boob up on our main lead wall. we used pulleys and a mini traxion. the backing plate was easily established on the wall. the hard part was lining up all 4 bolts of the feature onto the backing plate. we would get 3 in, and the 4th would be about 1/4" off. we had to take it off 3 times to reset it, and we had to retap 2 tnuts in the backing plate. we ended up using a screwdriver to bend the corner just enough to get the bolt in. this would be much easier now that we have an idea of how it works, and it would be much easier when setting it up from the ground or on a vertical wall.
the only thing we are struggling with is that there are not a ton of tnuts in it. we do not double tape holds at our gyms (for many reasons), so we are finding it hard to set many routes through le boob. but it does add a whole new dimension to the wall. pretty nice
le boob
(14 posts) (8 voices)-
Posted 2 years ago #
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So I must ask... why no double taping? Many reasons you say...
I love Le Boob! I wish we could afford to get one. From your picture it looks like you have lots of nice toys to play with!
Posted 2 years ago # -
my opinion is this on double taping (here is the short version: it is lazy and uncreative, and it looks like crap. if you would like to read the long drawn out rant/high horse post, please read below.),
i think it is lazy and uncreative. it doesnt take a lot of creativity to put tape on holds that are already there and call it a route. if you really really really need a hold right there in that one crucial place, well....think outside that zone and create something else. dont be afraid to change things. be good enough to have more than ONE sequence in your head. even if it is the coooooolest sequence you have ever thought of. come up with something else.
i believe that each hold should belong to an individual route. when you are putting a hold on the wall it should belong to the vision you have with said route, not be part of another vision. we hold true to this for all holds including start holds, foot holds and finish holds.
most importantly, i think it looks like garbage. nothing makes a wall look like shit than a bunch of holds with hella tape all over them. we do not double tape or use two colors for one route, ie red on white, black with red dot etc. we use single color tape so each line is its own and easily differentiated from the others. all that other stuff looks like crap to me.
when members and potential members come into your facility the first thing they look at is the walls. most of them dont know the differences between a super cleanly taped and pretty wall, and they dont have to. but i know that it makes a difference, and i know better than they do ;), cuz i do this every day. i think luke said something about the details in another post. i fully agree with him on this.
when it is the standard, and they are accustomed to it,.........
they dont even need to know why our walls look good, but they do know they look good.
that makes me happy, and makes my obsessive behavior feel justified in my mind.i take a lot of pride in what we do at our gyms and how we run our routesetting system. aesthetics are super important to me. details are super important to me. but like i said, i am super anal, obsessive even.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I agree, double taping sucks. One color, one route, one love
Easy to see especially on hard routes, you don't want your feet getting on the wrong stuff...And whilst we're talking of volumes, I'm impressed with Motavation Volumes, yes I know we make them ourselves, but wooden volumes are a pain to make. I like what they're doing
Posted 2 years ago # -
Great rant Tyson! If anyone is interested in how routesetting systems should work... call Tyson, it sounds like he actually cares! (not like the rest of the recreational facilities out there)
I will say however, when we use a feature at our gym, inevitably it ends up getting double taped, even octo-taped! I agree it looks crappy, yet just as you find in the outdoor environment, a single feature can have multiple lines running through it. Food for thought.
Cheers
Posted 2 years ago # -
First off...I love the way things are going with "bolt-on" volumes. Great work with getting it in place.
Then...on to the double taping aside this turned into...
I have always been completely against the idea of re-using holds. Besides the well said argument covering how it always looks like hell and unprofessional, I hated seeing holds going through several stripping cycles, staying on the wall getting greasy, coated with a black varnish of shoe rubber, and leaving the wall boring (same hold, same place, same same same). If the 4 strips of tape hanging off a hold don't make a route look bad the black varnish of rubber and polished layers of chalk and grease will do the trick.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Our gym doesn't double tape primarily because when you go to strip and holds are part of multiple routes, you either have to a) strip five routes instead of one or b) let your hold's texture get ground the hell by the overuse.
like Brannon the grease factor is my main beef with double taping. I can feel a distinct difference when i climb at other gyms where double taping is utlilized. its obvious its bad for the holds. sometimes we see Holds that we got right when they came out that are twice as slick at other gyms then ours cause its getting 3x the traffic, and is on the wall for 2x the time before it gets washed.
I completely agree with everyone about all of this, but remember to think about the fact that alot of small time gyms without alot of hold budget money will have a hard time setting alot of routes without double taping. I'm sure many gyms use it as a money saver.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Also i dont understand why you cant set more than one route on the boob (is that the issue), cant you just tape each hold on the volume??
Posted 2 years ago # -
i never said we can only set one route on leboob. we actually have 5 routes going through it now. that picture was taken the minute it went up.
all i was saying is that it is limited with the tnut pattern. with the wood volumes we make, we put tnuts wherever we want and have tons of options.
love leboob, it is really cool. we are psyched to have it. we just wish it had more tnut options.Posted 2 years ago # -
Haven't seen this thing first hand, so I'm not real sure how it's put together at the T-nut locations, but in the old days (when fiberglass euro-volumes first started appearing), we had our own solution:
We would drill a hole in the volume where we wanted a t-nut. On the backside of this hole we would then turn a T-nut upside-down and place the flat surface (usually facing away from the back of the wall panel) against the interior of the volume. The T-nut gets epoxied into place (with liberal amounts of epoxy) and we had a ghetto T-nut retrofit.
Posted 2 years ago # -
i gotcha tyson. just confusion on my part
Posted 2 years ago # -
We have done the same thing Louie has mentioned. With success.
Posted 2 years ago # -
louie, that is a great idea.
this will happen on our boob.
thanksPosted 2 years ago # -
We sort of have a boob feature as well, but I like yours a lot better because I think I see relatively large flat surfaces around each T-nut in your picture... ours is continuously round, so only really small holds will sit flush to the surface, which makes it pretty useless. Add that our boob also has very few T-nuts, and is made out of fiberglass, which isn't the best material for screw-ons, and you have a sad, lonely feature that sits in storage collecting dust :(
Posted 2 years ago # -
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Posted 9 months ago #
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