Read Sean McColl's Blog.
Reactions?
Any videos?
Would love to see if these problems are really as terrible and Sean says.
Munich Qualifiers?!?
(8 posts) (7 voices)-
Posted 1 year ago #
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Posted 1 year ago #
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Sean's opinion should definitely be taken into consideration due to his vast experience at WC competitions. I also dont think Sean is a bitter kind of person. He wouldnt write a blog-rant just because he didn't get into Semi's.
The problems looked pretty standard for Euro WC's. Tricky volume setting with not much room to move. I'm not going to judge the quality of the problems from my couch. Sean was there and has a valid opinion that should be heard.
But I will say that Euro setting has much to be desired. If the IFSC and European setters want competitors to keep showing up for their comps they're going to have to make the problems fun and showy and not just hard and weird. Modern comps are for the spectators as much as for the competitors. There's a reason that the Euro competitors like coming to the Vail World Cup over all others.
Posted 1 year ago # -
competitors and coach opinion on WC route setting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WMW3ph_Ifs&feature=autofb
I agree with most of them, in terms of the routesetting I preferred
Posted 1 year ago # -
Fred, thanks for posting this. VERY interesting! Worth watching the whole thing.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I guess I'm mistaken, the competitors did not like Vail so much. This video is awesome, thanks Udo for taking the time to actually talk to the climbers.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Wow,
A big compliment from Udo and all the climbers to our routesetting team of 5 in Eindhoven.
I've been meaning to write up an article about that gig for ages. These compliments get me motivated again for that.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Hey everyone, just came across this post and I was also a very flattered setter when Udo's video came out, since i was one of Herman's teammates in Eindhoven. I wrote an article on it for the Teknik blog http://www.teknikhandholds.com/tekkies/. But Herman It would be great to hear what your thoughts are on the matter.
However I was interested in Mike's initial reaction to Euro setting. In a strange kind of way I think I agree with him, I did think Vail was visually the most spectacular, and other World Cup Events this year (including Eindhoven) could have used a bit more of the American Touch (The action on mens 4 in the finals, longer problems). I am however a big fan of the hard and wierd (especially the wierd), for both the climbers and the spectators.
I feel that there is real value and suspense in watching a climber evolve through mistakes and frustration on a first few tries to succes in a matter of minutes, even if it doesnt involve big swingings and dynos.
If the show aspect of a competition could be compared to a good circus show, it would be like watching the magician, on one problem, the trapeze artists on another, the tightrope walker on a third and so on and so forth... except the performer is always the same person.
I belive that the diversity of possible moves in climbing is one of the greatest things about it. So in a week I am going to set at a comp in the US, and hope that some of that long dynamic move magic you guys seem to have the secret off rubs off on me, so I can add it to my arsenal of hoops to design good competition circuits.Posted 1 year ago #
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