I think a comp final set with the Metolius wood grips would be horrible... I mean I think they're pretty cool, but everyone in our gym hates them because they are so damn hard to hold on to.
Must have holds...
(38 posts) (18 voices)-
Posted 2 years ago #
-
You guys are all on racing bikes and I'm just taking the training wheels off but for me (and I haven't seen these brands listed yet) I dig Atomik's comfy Roof Pockets and Element Climbing's Ions, cool pinches. I also just ordered some ball hitches from Rock Candy 'cause they were pretty unique. I'm not an expert but that's my 2 cents. These guys were a lot more accomodating than some of the other larger companies. Anyone use HRT from Canada?
Posted 2 years ago # -
slate: The Element Ions are fun, I see where Lowber is coming from
The Metolius wood grips aren't for everyone, they're "hardcore" for comp setting... but once they bed in they could be a lot of fun, but seriously hard. ("herdcore" is meant as a term based on how deceptive these holds are.. I find them super hard on a 45)For me, I think of simple hand friendly shapes that are a bitch to hold... well these are those (met Wood Grips). But I saw some setting from the TDB (Tour De Bloc) guys this weekend that was amazing this last weekend on So Ill / Project / DRCC / Climb It and Fricton holds that separated the field perfectly... and when I say perfectly I mean from a filming standpoint not a climbing one! Comp was amazing
How about the E-Grips Double Disks? They're pretty must have for a setter
(got off the point for a sec there)
Posted 2 years ago # -
We have old Nicros ledges in our gym that are slightly incut and absolutely amazing as catches or crimp ledges on overhangs from 35-60 degrees. Those are some of my favorite 'older model holds'. I'm guessing they are about 10-12 years old and I use them for everything. I love the VooDoo duel-tex scopes and the El Dorado sloper. Nicros again stikess gold with the Sweet Potatoe, challenging, but great if you know how to use it. I also love from the DRCC, the Double barrel. Also any sloper you see on their site is as awesome as it looks, if not better. They also have some comfy finger buckets not on their website, shaped by a local guy Mike Slavens, they are great for moderates as well as classic, cool, comp lines.
Posted 2 years ago # -
So-ill: The Eggs
Voodoo: Cresent Set
Detroit RCC: The Force crimp sets
Franklin: Bubbles setPosted 2 years ago # -
Lately I've had to repack all of my holds as I'm moving the wall to a new place... as I've had to sort my holds I've found some others:
Holdz: dual tex pockets, slim pickings for sure
Revolution: skehls
(P)usher: system tiles, i actually found the 12 that I have
Delire: PolisporinI want to get some Teknik Talons and Mathematics and some other euro stuff. I'm still loving the Os'mose holds but they're fragile as hell which sucks
Posted 2 years ago # -
You could go retro and hunt down some of these awesome sets:
~Yaniro: Great holds, light for thier time. comfy slopers, pinches, pockets
~Karn: Hella heavy. Black and Grey Karn sets are sweet for all kinds of boulder problems. These tend to be more sloper oriented with a couple crimps and pinches
~Straight Up: Sweet shapes, they feel alot like the Yaniro holds but not as rad. They do have some great diverse holds
~Stoneage: The big Stoneage holds are probably my favorite holds made, and thier older smaller holds were fantasic too. Near the end of their run I saw alot of spinners, though.
~Pusher: Everyhold was bloody fantastic. The font set if fabulous, equally good on sport routes as well as boulder problems. Glad they are backPosted 1 year ago # -
well (P)usher is back!!
I know that some Yaniro are coming back pretty soonPosted 1 year ago #
Reply
You must log in to post.