I've been experimenting with tools and whatnot for years (in fact has gathered quite a pile of tools that didn't work so well in my garage) and here's my current setup.
- WRENCH: Your everyday sturdy ratchet wrench with ball hex bits similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80573-8-Piece-8-Inch-Metric/dp/B000NIAIKQ/ref=pd_rhf_shvl_1. Long ball hex bits I found is very useful in that 1. it doesn't damage/strip the head of the bolts, 2. you can turn from a varying degree of angle (although limited) due to the ball head design, 3. the long, extended design helps in reaching tight spots on the wall or holds that have very deep bolt holds, the kind that a regular hex bit can't reach.
- TAP: Prevents a trip to the land of dust and asthma.
- BOSCH IMPACT DRIVER: For stripping walls only. The long ball hex bit mentioned above also adapts to the driver.
- WD40: For when the t-nuts just needs a little bit of lube even after a spin with the tap and keeps the dust and grime from killing the threads. Trust me, it works wonders.
- TOOL BELT AND BUCKET: I use a tool waist belt at Lowes for all my tools when I set on walls. I found it's a bit easier on the harness when you have most of the weight you're carrying secured on your waist rather than dangling from a rope or stored in your bucket. Plus I also got a drill gun holder for the tool belt, which makes keeping your heaviest tool secured on your waist. For a bucket, I have the Asama climbing bucket, but I sometimes use a rigged heavy-duty bucket if I have a lot of holds to carry.
I've experimented with power drills before switching to an impact driver. Most power drills deliver too much torque, and when stripping, actually causes spinners (rare, but it does happen). An impact drill, instead of one giant "push" to loosen the bolt like a regular drill does, delivers hundreds of little cranks to loosen the bolt for you before it goes freespin.
Also, I don't set with a drill for the following reasons:
1. It doesn't deliver enough torque to properly tighten the holds, so you'd have to switch to a hand wrench anyways.
2. It's easier to see and "feel" if the bolt is properly feeding into the t-nut with a hand wrench before tightening. This doesn't always work with a drill.
3. If you do have a drill that has the torque to properly tighten the holds, you risk in over-tightening, which can cause spinners or a broken hold (yes I have done that too). If you have a regular drill that allows you to set your own torque before the clutch catches, I suppose that would work, but then you'd have to switch to a hand wrench after, which is one more step you have to take.
Hope this helps. -SW