EP has just announced that they are the only American company sanctioned to make the official IFSC Speed Wall. http://www.epusa.com/structures/Competition_IFSC_Speed_Wall.html
Should the US have Speed only competitions?
Speed Only Competitions?
(5 posts) (5 voices)-
Posted 1 year ago #
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Absolutely, just the same way down hill and cross country skiing are two different competitions.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I Think the industry should think about this thing of Speed Climbing, its majorly a discipline practiced by Easter European Countries and Asian ones, It draws little or no interest from the media and most climbers.
Its somehow related to the lack of structures and of valid competitions, we all remember the X-Games but besides that there is no structured plan to develop interest in Speed Climbing starting in Youth level, and to have solid competitions in a way climbers feel motivated to invest in this discipline.Personally I don't like it, but I feel it is a completely valid form of competition the only one who uses real world metrics TIME.
Nowadays Speed can't stand by itself as event, I think to held both Speed and Lead is the best choice, and a way do develop speed itself by re-introducing it to the climbing community. To held it as a separate event will make it even more marginal.
In the future it will lead to specialization of competitors and audiences.
"A few years ago the IFSC thought about ending with international Speed events led by the participation of only 3 or 4 countries after that some countries did an effort to send more athletes so that we could reach a number valid for a World event."
Posted 1 year ago # -
Does anyone know of a knock-off version of these holds? Is there someone in china making these out of lead paint or something?
Posted 1 year ago # -
I cant reall comment on the first problem for the mens or womens since the feed generally sucked a$$.
M2 I liked the idea of the volume climbing. The opening moves dynamic and exiting. The moves through the two big volumes I thought when led strip lighting flexible led strip lighting mini led light bars done well were good but ultimately led to some ugly climbing. ie knees and hip scums and some climbers sitting on the volumes.Posted 2 months ago # -
Seeing as most (all?) regional events are held at local gyms I see it as near impossible for there to be "sanctioned" speed walls available. Where is there a flat, slightly overhanging, 40 foot wall that a gym is willing to sacrifice for a speed comp? Assuming that most gyms will hold a speed comp along side lead and/or bouldering events. If the idea is do develop youth programs to create competitive speed climbers, gyms will have to dedicate wall space to speed training...that will never happen.
Also, is your gym willing to shell out close to $1000 for one set of ep speed holds? Not to mention timing equipment, special belay set ups, etc.
There is no denying the media marketability of speed climbing but there are too many other concerns that make me think that speed climbing in the US is not going to be happening anytime soon.
Posted 2 months ago # -
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Posted 2 months ago #
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