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Vail world cup
(7 posts) (5 voices)-
Posted 1 year ago #
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I'd like to know what you setters out there thought of the Vail World Cup. If you caught it on-line let us here your opinion.
Overall for us, the route setters of the comp, the event went great. We were very pleased with qualifiers and semi's; great problems that were showy and decisively separated the field.
Finals were a bit more challenging. Still we had very good problems that could have been fine-tuned. At this level of competition it's amazing the difference an inch or a few degrees makes to the final outcome.
But overall the crowd was psyched and the climbers said the problems were fun and challenging.
I'd like to give my props to Chris Daneilson, Manu Hassler, Jamie Emerson, Scott Mechler, Juan Jose Fernandez and to all the fine people at USA Climbing that worked their tails off to put on such a great event!
- Mike Helt
USAC Route SetterPosted 1 year ago # -
Climbing Narc has finals video: http://climbingnarc.com/2010/06/2010-teva-mountain-games-vail-bouldering-world-cup-media-wrap-up/
http://www.tevamountaingames.com/?page_id=824
Dead Point Mag: http://www.deadpointmag.com/articles/view/chloe-graftiaux-and-daniel-woods-win-vail-world-cup-2010
Posted 1 year ago # -
Hi Mike,
As my routesetting job for the world cup in Eindhoven comes up i am following the world Cup results closely.
It seems that this year more then ever almoste everybody can win at the girls and it is nice to see that kilian can be beaten too.
I really liked the setup for the colors of holds and the modules. They look clean and appealing.
It's true that a bit tweaking, and even turning a single hold or improving a foothold can make a very big difference. e.g. The last foothold in mens 4, the before-last hold in mens 2 and 3 and ladies 4. if any of these would have been better you would have had more tops.
I liked the lack of forbidden edges. with that wall i'm sure it was a challenge.
I general i liked the mens boulders. Especially the mens 4, the end of mens 2 (right foot high) and the move to the bonus hold of mens 1.
I liked the look, the module on module and the grip tape(?) of women 2.
I didn't like womens 1, the top stemming part of womens 2. and the mens could have done with a end dyno less. Maybe a nice mantle for problem 3?
Let's see if we can do better in eindhoven. Wish me best of luck.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Oh, and before I forget. The best move I liked was the end hold of Maud Ansade in Problem 2.
I really like it when climbers know the rules.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Uh Mike, I set the comp too.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Herman said it all.
What you did really great: Visually clean, intuitive and appealing! In comparison to the Vienna Cup: for someone like me who only saw the competition via live stream, the problems where visually traceable despite the low quality of the transmission.
And judging from the motivation the competitors seemed to have to fight on every problem, you have found a good balance of hard and not so hard sequences.
It was really fun to watch (a looot more than the Vienna Cup, the undisputable low of this years BWC).
Best
Sam
Posted 1 year ago # -
Here is an awesome video of all the problems at Vail.
Posted 1 year ago #
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