What inspires you? « Routesetter.com Forum

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What inspires you?

(19 posts) (15 voices)

Started 1 year ago by Mike
Latest reply from Barth

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Mike
Member

I'm curious, what inspires you when you're setting? Is it the holds, the wall, movement, nature, rock, art or the other setters?

I believe we as setters don't talk about inspiration that often. And if we do it's usually based on whether a climb is "real rock" or a "gym problem". But I'd like to know what you really think about when you're setting.

For me it starts with trying to create something that has never been seen, yet has a natural (I don't mean real rock) feel to it. Looking at sculptures often gets my mind thinking in a new way about form and function. And then it's the holds and what can I do with them that is unique yet purposeful. I love watching comp videos and seeing what other setters have down with the same holds I use.

Posted 1 year ago #
acorneau
Member

I set 3 new climbs on Sunday, one of which was a mid 5.10 in a curved/rounded corner with 2 different "cruxes" . I LOVE watching people figure out what to do about each crux. (I really like setting puzzles rather then brute-strength climbs.)

The first crux was usually solved one of two ways (with a few really weird/contorted solutions) and only a couple of people did it the way I had envisioned. For the second crux most people managed to figure out the smear/high-step/stem move... eventually!

Most folks really enjoyed the climb and it's very satisfying to hear their gratitude.

That's what inspires me.

Posted 1 year ago #
atp
Member

I like to sit and look at a blank wall, the more blank the better, and see the accents of the wall pop out whether its obvious or subtle. Then I think about if this face was outside what would be the best line. When I pick out holds, I like big volumes and or bright holds that feel good to hold, and put them on the line that I picked out. The whole process is exciting to me, I like to invision some outdoor line that I'll probably never find, but that I would be glued to if I found it. And definately I like watching people enjoying my route.

Posted 1 year ago #
jf
Member

Interesting holds. Using terrain in ways I haven't before. Forcing specific moves from movies and media. Trying to create and foster community feeling by getting climbers to enjoy and bond over the routes.

Posted 1 year ago #
Small-Time-Okie
Member

I'm gonna have to go with all of the above. I've been snowed in for the past week so most of my recent inspiration comes form comp vids. However, I can be inspired by a move from someone else route in the same gym, but I want to tweak it a little and put it on a different wall, or a single hold in a bucket will pop out and scream SET ME!!! Other times I'm sitting in school with a piece of paper and just start drawing moments then try to work them onto the wall. I have talked to a few other people and it seams as though nobody has a single source of inspiration.

To sum it up with a mega cliché, Inspiration is all around you.

Posted 1 year ago #
amjylkka787
Member

I'm a relatively new setter (only a little more than a year of setting experience), but I usually get inspired from fondling through the hold bucket and all of a sudden my hands feels something that just clicks. I then think of all the different moves I could do with it, and how best to get in and out of that move. Then the entire route is usually based around that one move or a series of moves found in a similar way. I also sometimes just like to stare at holds that are already on the wall and visualize what else could be done with them. Having a setting idea just 'click' in my head is one of the best feelings!

Posted 1 year ago #
kyle.vanhouse
Member

I personally like watching comp videos and trying to force something that looks fun, and difficult to force; the challenge I guess. I also like picking out a few holds and seeing how many times I can make the climber use them.

Posted 1 year ago #
brent.leeper
Member

Fun. Fun is what inspires me. I want to set something challenging, technical, and unique, but ultimately fun. Working on EP walls, I don't get the luxery of being able to force all the movement I want too, so really forcing that heel hook, or high step is hard. So, that leaves fun.

I like most setters (I think) like seeing how different people approach moves, and if I can get each of those different people saying "Man, that was fun!" Then I've done my job properly (Even if I haven't hit the grade I was aiming for).

Posted 1 year ago #
Small-Time-Okie
Member

I also like watching the stronger climbers get completely stumped on some moves, then seeing the skinny wizards twist their bodies and send it without trying.

Posted 1 year ago #
Sander
Member

brent.leeper
If you are in oregon you should check out the new wall at OSU. Big flat sweeping curved sections. Killer for routtesetting, macros, and dictating movement.

Posted 1 year ago #
Louie Anderson
Member

Hey Sander! Hope things are going well. Shoot me an email and let's catch up - louieanderson@live.com.

As for the topic: Sometimes a single hold or feature will inspire me and the climb gets set around that hold. Other times I'm trying to duplicate a sequence I've found outside. Still other times a certain section of wall or wall terrain will call to me. It's always something different...

Posted 1 year ago #
amjylkka787
Member

The other day I went into the gym to set something easy, but as I was going through holds all of these nasty little ones kept catching my eye. When one of the other workers later asked me why I set another really hard route (this was my third in a row, I've since gone in and put something easier up), I just responded with "the holds made me do it!"

Posted 1 year ago #
climbingholdreview
Member

Dustin just did and interview with Tonde Katiyo:
http://youtu.be/wXqvVyLlNdw
I find his views on walls / setting / holds interesting and it's interesting to see what he has to say. He talks about the routes he set for a training camp within the last few weeks and about how he sets and looks at competitors

Hope you enjoy

Posted 1 year ago #
Theo907
Member

Death Metal, preferably very technical and with a very specific vocal style. 2 examples: After the Burial and Within the Ruins.

Posted 1 year ago #
Sander
Member

Many times for me it is the same. Either a central hold that I build around or a specific sequence in mind...sometimes it is a certain line/topography in the gym that inspires. I think that is why we are hold junkies...they have always provided much of my inspiration, and shaping just takes it further.

Posted 1 year ago #
Vincent
Member

Fun

Posted 1 year ago #
acorneau
Member

This past Sunday I had another staffer look at me funny when he saw me rummaging through a hold bin saying, "Speak to me... Speak to me."

Posted 1 year ago #
offroute
Member

they all talk to me. should i be worried?

Posted 1 year ago #
Barth
Member

I think they talk to most of us... dont they?
I punish the holds that don't "volunteer". I put them in routes and in orientations that really push climbers. When the climbers say,"I hate that hold", the hold oddly has a way of speaking up next time...

Posted 1 year ago #

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